The seat of the Frankfurt soul is crystal clear, framed by rhombs like a diamond and, as a rule, dishwasher safe. It is the ribbed, the traditional pint glass for apple wine, Frankfurt's national drink and soul drink that combines everything that makes this city so special and holds it together at its core. We have been living in the “Painted House” in Sachsenhausen, Frankfurt's most famous apple wine restaurant, for many years, and that is why we feel empowered to be so daring. The Schoppepetzer, who for their part are sitting three floors below us in the taproom, know of course what they are holding in their hands: not just a wine made from apples, but also a formula to turn the world into a better one - which they don't care is,which is why the Frankfurt apple wine, unlike the port wine from Porto or the sherry from Jerez, has never made a world career.
Jakob Strobel y Serra
Deputy head of the features section.
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Frankfurt is the heart of German democracy.
But this is less due to the Paulskirche than to apple wine, the most democratic of all drinks, which embodies the principles of equality, justice and brotherhood like no other.
The Ebbelwei was invented half a millennium ago in Sachsenhausen, the district south of the Main, whose residents traditionally regard the river as a demarcation line and only set foot in northern Frankfurt in times of greatest need or worst compulsion.
From the beginning the Äppler was a manifestation of the will for freedom, a rebellion of the common people against the tyranny of the authorities.
Because making alcoholic soft drinks from apples was strictly forbidden at the time and was branded as "willful drinking of God's fruit".
The Sachsenhausen family was happy to accept this blasphemy, and since their stubborn pride did not allow the city council across the river to impose any regulations on them, their apple wine culture was already flourishing in the days of Luther, a beer lover.
It has remained that way to this day, nothing could shake the Frankfurters' love for their Stöffche, especially not Hitler, who tried in vain to ban apple wine as a "peace luxury" during the Second World War.
Subversive pleasure in stubbornness
Why the dictator hated the Äppler can still be seen today in the "Painted House", which owes its name to the colorful facade painted with bucolic scenes of harvest and colliery Obstinacy thwarted.
In front of the ribbed and the Bembel, the traditional blue-gray stoneware vessel for the Stöffche, all people are brothers and sisters.