The revenge of dry bread!
The bread of yesterday and tomorrow cut.
© Benoît Castel
By: Clémence Denavit Follow
4 min
Would hard, stale, dry bread become the emblem of the fight against food waste?
The “new” stale bread is told on the web and in kitchens, the recipes of the old retoks with the arrival of household robots and supermarkets find followers and soup!
Bread balls, homemade croutons, bread soups, mbouraké and stale bread flour, French toast, tiramisu, bread: the greedy, the astute, the broke foodies, the thrifty reinvent the bakery!
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New breads are made from yesterday's bread, the baguette and the peasant slice become spices, seasoning, an ingredient in its own right: bread reconnects with the sacred, a fundamental food synonymous with life - bread and life bear the same name in Arabic. ?
To the happiness of stale bread with
Karim Haïdar
, Lebanese chef at the boutique à manger les mots et le ciel, with Hassan Issa at 81, rue Olivier de Serres, Paris 15th.
This restaurant / grocery store / bookstore table becomes a table d'hôte at nightfall.
- Words and the sky
-
Instagram Words and the Sky
-
Facebook Words and the sky
Karim Haïdar, Words and Heaven.
© Clémence Denavit / Le Taste du Monde RFI
-
Benoît Castel
is a pastry chef and baker in Paris.
The way he creates the jellies for his apple pies using all the fruit, including the skins and cores, he has created the bread of yesterday and tomorrow.
His approach is to use all the raw material, out of respect for the cereal and for those who cultivate it.
From yesterday's bread, he makes a dough which he incorporates again into his kneader.
Yesterday's bread, with its honey notes and golden crust, is 100% recycled bread, delicious and to keep!
Benoît Castel, pastry chef.
© Benoît Castel
-
Alessandra Montagne
is Franco-Brazilian, she is the
chef
of the
restaurant Nosso
in Paris, committed her cuisine is sustainable and local.
-
Leïla Marachli-Rive,
founder of
the association Le monde à reach de Pain.
For further
- Stale bread, ten ways to prepare it,
by Adriano Farano, Editions de l'Epure
- This is not a book to make bread
by Apollonia Poilâne and Nathaly Nicolas Iannielo, editions de l'Epure
-
The Renewal of stale bread in
Ceres 7 magazine,
Menu Fretin editions
- Le pain est d'or,
by Massimo Bottura, Phaïdon editions
-
The Refettorio
- Lebanese flavors,
by Karim Haïdar and Andrée Maalouf, published by Albin Michel
- With Karim Haïdar, “
Bread in the kitchens of the Arab world” in Le Goût du monde.
In images, in pictures
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Musical programming
Azafady
de Lodger and Leonie Sam
Onipa's
porridge
.
Recipes: Bread soup by Alessandra Montagne and Breadcrumbs, by Adriano Farano
Bread soup by Alessandra Montagne, Franco-Brazilian chef at Nosso restaurant
, promenade Levi Strauss Paris 13th arrondissement.
1) Soak a dry baguette cut into large pieces in a milk / water mixture to soften it.
2) Cut a large onion, a clove of garlic and a shallot and brown them in the pan in a little butter.
3) Add a sprig of thyme and a background of white wine and simmer over medium heat.
4) Add the softened bread and cover with the water / milk mixture.
Season with salt and pepper and cook for 15 min.
5) Mix the velouté with a little cream.
6) Pour into plates and decorate with raw vegetables, hazelnut or walnut oil, fresh herbs depending on what you find!
The breadcrumbs,
pangrattato
in Italian from The
Stale
Bread, 10 Ways to Prepare it by Adriano Farano, editions of the Sketch.
“Breading is a basic ingredient for me, like salt or pepper. Practical for gratins, perfect with certain pasta bianca recipes (pasta without tomato sauce), it will add a crunchy side to your dishes, like a bouquet of sparks
.
I only prepare it when I have at least 1/2 or even 1 kg of stale bread. If, like me, you want to consume as little electricity as possible, take advantage of the heat in your oven after cooking another dish: place the pre-cut bread on a baking sheet, put in the oven, close and forget everything until the following day.
Then check that the bread is crisp. If this is not the case, turn on the oven for 10 minutes, but take care that the bread does not brown: the breadcrumbs would be too dark and would have a burnt taste.
Place the bread in the bowl of a blender and turn it on until the bread is coarsely powdered. I like that the breading is not completely homogeneous, which gives it a more rustic feel.
Reserve it in a jar. To use it in a pasta recipe, prepare a
soffritto
(based on oil, garlic, pepper, anchovies, olives…) in a pan. Just before wringing out the pasta, and after
reserving
the
soffritto
, pour 1 teaspoon of breadcrumbs per guest into the same still hot pan.
Fry over high heat, stir, lower the heat and mix again until the breadcrumbs caramelize. Scrape the pan well. Prepare your pasta plates and, just at the end, garnish them with the still hot breadcrumbs. Guaranteed success! ”
Aich-El-Saraya by Karim Haïdar and Andrée Maalouf, recipe from Lebanese flavors, published by Albin Michel editions.
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