Dull, with blackheads, prone to the appearance of spots ... Our skin does not hide its needs and it is in our hands to satisfy them, if possible, in the
healthiest and
most
natural way
.
A mission that Cristóbal Vidal, member of the National Association of Professionals and Autonomous of Natural Therapies (COFENAT) and director of the Institute of Dermocosmetics, is going to help us by explaining everything we need to know about one of the home treatments that feels best. to our skin and even to our mood:
natural face masks
.
"Facial masks work from the outside in to restore the skin to its maximum
radiance, beauty and relaxation
. They not only stop the signs of aging and fatigue, but also repair, nourish and hydrate the skin."
By penetrating slowly and deeply, "the nutrients are absorbed for hours."
Depending on its ingredients, its effects are "to
hydrate and nourish
the skin, smoothing it;
eliminate sebum
and impurities;
firm, relax and regenerate
;
eliminate dead cells
and produce a
cooling effect;
or facilitate the
absorption of active ingredients
of actions specific (nutritious, anti-inflammatory, regenerative, soothing, biostimulant, etc.).
Basically, according to Vidal, "the mask is made up of a
base paste and specific cosmetic active ingredients
for each skin need that enhance its action".
This base paste can be "a mixture of
clays and muds
, especially for
oily and congested skin
".
Also, "a thick cream for different types of skin; or based on
oils, butters and waxes
for
very dry skin
."
DRY SKIN
What does dry skin need?
"It is clear that, above all,
hydration
. In addition to
protection
against all the external factors that dry it out," advises Cristóbal Vidal.
The care of this type of skin can be carried out by means of "masks in the form of
creams or ointments
, with ingredients that reinforce the lipid barrier and the natural hydration factor".
The
hydration
is achieved by "vegetable oils and humectants, able to retain water in the skin, preventing dehydration causing environmental factors (wind, cold, heat ...) and its consequences (dryness, flaking and cracking) ".
The most used are "
glycerin, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, betaine and urea
; all of them are naturally in our skin".
Vidal explains that "
vegetable oils and butters
compensate for the lack of fat due to the low activity of the sebaceous glands."
They also reduce "
water loss
by forming a layer on the surface of the epidermis that slows it down.
The most hydrating oils, he points out, are "those rich in oleic such as
olive, avocado, apricot and almond
."
Also "
shea, cocoa, mango and avocado
"
butters
.
To restore skin lipids and firm the skin, "
oils rich in omega 3 and 6 fatty acids such
as hemp, rosehip, raspberry, evening primrose, borage or grape"
can be added to the masks
.
In addition, to reinforce the action of oils and humectants, "active ingredients that protect the skin and reinforce the barrier effect such as
marine collagen, wheat proteins and natural ceramides
" can be added.
SKIN WITH SPOTS
In this case.
the main objective is "to
protect oneself from solar radiation
".
Similarly, it is convenient "to force the renewal of the epidermis through
peels
with alpha hydroxy acids, crushed olive pits, sugar and other exfoliating powders".
As spots can occur on any skin type, Cristóbal Vidal recommends choosing "a base according to our needs and adding some active ingredients that can help, such as hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, licorice and blackberry extracts. Also niacinamide (vitamin B3) ".
All of them, he clarifies, are oriented "to
inhibit the action of the amino acid tyrosine
, involved in hyperpigmentation."
OILY SKIN
The main objective of cosmetics for oily skin will be "to
reduce the amount of sebum
on the skin and to keep microorganisms that can infect the pores and cause pimples at bay."
It is advisable to remove it with "a micellar water or a make-up remover oil".
The best mask is based on "
green clay
to which an
infusion of plants
is added
to help close pores such as geranium, rose or chestnut".
The action of the mask can be reinforced "with astringent active ingredients that help to
close the pores and reduce excess fat, such
as allantoin, caffeine, brewer's yeast or ivy and sage extract".
SKIN WITH ACNE
"Acne is an inflammation of the skin that appears, usually during adolescence, on the face, neck and upper part of the chest and back. It develops at the base of the hair due to the
excess functioning of the sebaceous glands,
that become infected forming pimples. The bacteria responsible for this infection is Propionibacterium acnes ", details this specialist.
The first objective, then, is to "
disinfect and heal
the skin, while acting against seborrhea".
In this case, the mask base is "of
absorbent powders
, such as clay or mud, to which is added an
infusion of plants
that reduce the production of sebum and close the pore such as fucus, nettle, gotu kola, arnica, ivy and beer yeast".
It can be reinforced with "anti-acne actives such as azelaic acid, alpha bisabolol, allantoin and vitamins A and B3".
MATURE SKIN
To slow down the aging process, it is essential to
"hydrate, nourish and protect
the skin from aggressive environmental factors".
At the same time, it will be necessary to provide it with "the ingredients that should be in a natural way to keep it
healthy and detoxify it
."
It will also favor "
periodic exfoliation
, because it stimulates the regeneration process and removes dead cells."
To protect and regenerate mature skin, the most appropriate mask base is "a cream with deeply penetrating oils such as
rosehip, evening primrose, jojoba, argan, wheat germ and borage
" to which they will be added. moisturizing and regenerating active ingredients such as
hydrolyzed wheat proteins, hyaluronic acid, collagen and marine elastin
".
In addition, "
vitamins A, B3, C and E
, which are antioxidants, help reduce wrinkles produced by the sun's rays."
SENSITIVE SKIN
The first thing that a person with this type of skin should avoid, Vidal warns, are "
allergenic or irritant substances such
as: benzoic acid, lactic acid, alpha hydroxy acids and urea: ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or ingredients that contain cinnamic acid (various essential oils) ".
Instead, he will appreciate "
mild ingredients
like sunflower oil, sesame, hemp, jojoba, grape, etc."
The base of the mask has to "be soft, in the form of a
gel or cream
to which moisturizers such as
hyaluronic acid and glycerin
can be added
that retain water in the skin and prevent dryness that causes itching and irritation."
In this case, you can also add "infusions of
anti-inflammatory and soothing plants such
as chamomile, calendula, pansy, plantain, mallow and linden."
To reinforce the
soothing effect
of the mask, you can add "some active ingredients such as alpha bisabolol, which is found in chamomile essential oil and vitamin E".
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