Dull, with blackheads, prone to the appearance of spots ... Our skin does not hide its needs and it is in our hands to satisfy them, if possible, in the

healthiest and

most

natural way

.

A mission that Cristóbal Vidal, member of the National Association of Professionals and Autonomous of Natural Therapies (COFENAT) and director of the Institute of Dermocosmetics, is going to help us by explaining everything we need to know about one of the home treatments that feels best. to our skin and even to our mood:

natural face masks

.

"Facial masks work from the outside in to restore the skin to its maximum

radiance, beauty and relaxation

. They not only stop the signs of aging and fatigue, but also repair, nourish and hydrate the skin."

By penetrating slowly and deeply, "the nutrients are absorbed for hours."

Depending on its ingredients, its effects are "to

hydrate and nourish

the skin, smoothing it;

eliminate sebum

and impurities;

firm, relax and regenerate

;

eliminate dead cells

and produce a

cooling effect;

or facilitate the

absorption of active ingredients

of actions specific (nutritious, anti-inflammatory, regenerative, soothing, biostimulant, etc.).

Basically, according to Vidal, "the mask is made up of a

base paste and specific cosmetic active ingredients

for each skin need that enhance its action".

This base paste can be "a mixture of

clays and muds

, especially for

oily and congested skin

".

Also, "a thick cream for different types of skin; or based on

oils, butters and waxes

for

very dry skin

."

DRY SKIN

What does dry skin need?

"It is clear that, above all,

hydration

. In addition to

protection

against all the external factors that dry it out," advises Cristóbal Vidal.

The care of this type of skin can be carried out by means of "masks in the form of

creams or ointments

, with ingredients that reinforce the lipid barrier and the natural hydration factor".

The

hydration

is achieved by "vegetable oils and humectants, able to retain water in the skin, preventing dehydration causing environmental factors (wind, cold, heat ...) and its consequences (dryness, flaking and cracking) ".

The most used are "

glycerin, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, betaine and urea

; all of them are naturally in our skin".

Vidal explains that "

vegetable oils and butters

compensate for the lack of fat due to the low activity of the sebaceous glands."

They also reduce "

water loss

by forming a layer on the surface of the epidermis that slows it down.

The most hydrating oils, he points out, are "those rich in oleic such as

olive, avocado, apricot and almond

."

Also "

shea, cocoa, mango and avocado

"

butters

.

To restore skin lipids and firm the skin, "

oils rich in omega 3 and 6 fatty acids such

as hemp, rosehip, raspberry, evening primrose, borage or grape"

can be added to the masks

.

In addition, to reinforce the action of oils and humectants, "active ingredients that protect the skin and reinforce the barrier effect such as

marine collagen, wheat proteins and natural ceramides

" can be added.

SKIN WITH SPOTS

In this case.

the main objective is "to

protect oneself from solar radiation

".

Similarly, it is convenient "to force the renewal of the epidermis through

peels

with alpha hydroxy acids, crushed olive pits, sugar and other exfoliating powders".

As spots can occur on any skin type, Cristóbal Vidal recommends choosing "a base according to our needs and adding some active ingredients that can help, such as hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, licorice and blackberry extracts. Also niacinamide (vitamin B3) ".

All of them, he clarifies, are oriented "to

inhibit the action of the amino acid tyrosine

, involved in hyperpigmentation."

OILY SKIN

The main objective of cosmetics for oily skin will be "to

reduce the amount of sebum

on the skin and to keep microorganisms that can infect the pores and cause pimples at bay."

It is advisable to remove it with "a micellar water or a make-up remover oil".

The best mask is based on "

green clay

to which an

infusion of plants

is added

to help close pores such as geranium, rose or chestnut".

The action of the mask can be reinforced "with astringent active ingredients that help to

close the pores and reduce excess fat, such

as allantoin, caffeine, brewer's yeast or ivy and sage extract".

SKIN WITH ACNE

"Acne is an inflammation of the skin that appears, usually during adolescence, on the face, neck and upper part of the chest and back. It develops at the base of the hair due to the

excess functioning of the sebaceous glands,

that become infected forming pimples. The bacteria responsible for this infection is Propionibacterium acnes ", details this specialist.

The first objective, then, is to "

disinfect and heal

the skin, while acting against seborrhea".

In this case, the mask base is "of

absorbent powders

, such as clay or mud, to which is added an

infusion of plants

that reduce the production of sebum and close the pore such as fucus, nettle, gotu kola, arnica, ivy and beer yeast".

It can be reinforced with "anti-acne actives such as azelaic acid, alpha bisabolol, allantoin and vitamins A and B3".

MATURE SKIN

To slow down the aging process, it is essential to

"hydrate, nourish and protect

the skin from aggressive environmental factors".

At the same time, it will be necessary to provide it with "the ingredients that should be in a natural way to keep it

healthy and detoxify it

."

It will also favor "

periodic exfoliation

, because it stimulates the regeneration process and removes dead cells."

To protect and regenerate mature skin, the most appropriate mask base is "a cream with deeply penetrating oils such as

rosehip, evening primrose, jojoba, argan, wheat germ and borage

" to which they will be added. moisturizing and regenerating active ingredients such as

hydrolyzed wheat proteins, hyaluronic acid, collagen and marine elastin

".

In addition, "

vitamins A, B3, C and E

, which are antioxidants, help reduce wrinkles produced by the sun's rays."

SENSITIVE SKIN

The first thing that a person with this type of skin should avoid, Vidal warns, are "

allergenic or irritant substances such

as: benzoic acid, lactic acid, alpha hydroxy acids and urea: ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or ingredients that contain cinnamic acid (various essential oils) ".

Instead, he will appreciate "

mild ingredients

like sunflower oil, sesame, hemp, jojoba, grape, etc."

The base of the mask has to "be soft, in the form of a

gel or cream

to which moisturizers such as

hyaluronic acid and glycerin

can be added

that retain water in the skin and prevent dryness that causes itching and irritation."

In this case, you can also add "infusions of

anti-inflammatory and soothing plants such

as chamomile, calendula, pansy, plantain, mallow and linden."

To reinforce the

soothing effect

of the mask, you can add "some active ingredients such as alpha bisabolol, which is found in chamomile essential oil and vitamin E".

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