Jewish kitchens
Pumpkin Bread by Leah Koenig, from "The Jewish Cookbook".
© Phaidon
By: Clémence Denavit Follow
9 mins
The plural is essential when it comes to cuisine, and more when it comes to Jewish cultures and cuisines.
Cuisine without borders, uprooted, migrant, refugee, built over the centuries in the cooking pots of its people and its diasporas, in the North: in Central Europe, in Russia, and in the South, from the Iberian Peninsula, the Mediterranean and the 'East.
Worlds with incredibly diverse, lively, regional, incredible flavors.
Men and women with common roots, rites, and symbols, meeting every week around the world, around a soul, an identity and a common memory of which the cuisine is the most warm and expressive echo .
Publicity
With
Florence Kahn
, owner and manager of the Yiddish catering, bakery and pastry shop - 24 rue des Écouffes, in the Marais in Paris.
On
and
- Jessy Levy, director of the restaurant La fille du boucher, 40 rue Cardinet in the 17th arrondissement in Paris.
The restaurant's website
and
Instagram.
- Leah Koenig, culinary author, her latest book "
Le livre de la cuisine juive
" was released in French by Phaïdon editions in 2020.
Leah Koenig's website
and
.
- Jonas Pariente created the collaborative web-series “
Grandmas Project
” sharing the recipes and stories of grandmothers around the world, filmed by their grandchildren.
In images, in pictures
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For further
-
The great book of Jewish cuisine
, by Claudia Roden - Flammarion editions
-
The Ashkenazi cookbook
, by Florence Kahn and Stéphan Lagorce - Hachette Pratique
-
Jerusalem,
by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamini - Hachette.
Musical programming
When you're smiling
, from the soundtrack of Woody Allen's Cursed Aphrodite
Happy,
by Sandra Nkake
Batwanes beek,
from Warda.
THE RECIPE
Matzagnes de Pessa 'with spinach - recipe by Florence Kahn from “Bagels, cheesecakes and other Yiddish recipes”, Mango editions.
For 6 people, preparation 20 min Cooking 1 h
For 1 square mold of 25 cm side
500 g of spinach, 20 cl of double liquid cream, 4 whole eggs + 2 egg whites, 100 g of grated Emmental, several square matzoh leaves, 10 g of salt, 5 g of pepper.
Steam the spinach for 10 minutes.
In a bowl, mix the spinach with the cream, whole eggs, salt, pepper and grated cheese.
Beat the whites with a fork, then pour them into a deep plate.
Preheat your oven to 180 ° (thermostat 6)
In a mold lined with a sheet of baking paper, place a sheet of matza previously soaked in the beaten egg white.
Spread a thick layer of spinach then cover with a sheet of soaked matza, and so on until all the spinach is used up.
Cover with a last sheet of matza without soaking it.
Cover the dish with aluminum foil.
Bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the sheet of aluminum foil and continue cooking for another 20 minutes.
Nano's molokheya, a recipe from Grandmas project
For 16 to 20 people.
Cooking: 8 h
Ingredients
400 g of onions, 50 g of garlic (in cloves), 2.8 kg of beef - chuck for example, 4 tsp of sugar
500 g of tomato sauce, 1.2 kg of frozen molokheya, 3 handfuls of dry molokheya, 50 -60 g of coriander seeds, 50 g of fresh coriander, salt.
1 teaspoon of Harissa, the juice of 2 lemons and a pinch of pepper.
1. Blanch the onion and garlic in boiling water for 3 minutes.
Cut the meat into portions, brown it in a Dutch oven with an onion.
2. Then put the meat, onion and garlic in a large pot (“couscoussière”), and add the water.
The meat should be submerged.
Bring to the boil, add the tomato, skim.
Cook over low heat for 4 hours, until the meat is tender.
Remove and set aside the onions and garlic.
Chop the fresh cilantro and add it to the dish.
3. Grill the coriander seeds, and mix with the onion and garlic.
Salt.
4. Add 1 teaspoon of Harissa, half of the mixed spices and lemon juice.
5. Taste and adjust.
Brown in the pan and fry the other half of the mixed spice mixture and add it to the pot.
6. Rinse and soak 3 handfuls of dry molokheya, filter and add to the pot.
7. Add lemon, salt, and pepper
8. Bring the meat in the pot to a boil then turn off the heat.
9. Taste, add if necessary a little lemon, pepper, salt, and enjoy!
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