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Like a contrast to the fast pace of the fashion industry before the pandemic, there are the lavishly produced fashion films that replaced the real catwalk shows this season.
Instead of excitedly staged shows that are over after a few minutes, the presentations of the new collections returned to a high-quality standard this year.
They had it for the last time before social media and shaky cell phone recordings from the auditorium became established.
The fashion films were a high-quality experience that gave a representative framework to the work and the ideas that lay behind the months of creating the collections with great attention to detail.
Digital art for eternity, so to speak.
Not only does this do more justice to the work of the designers, these fashion films also have the advantage that theoretically everyone was equally able to watch the shows from the sofa.
Even if in everyday corona you often lack the motivation to look at beautiful things for a hopefully better life again soon.
It's a shame actually.
After New York, London and Milan, Fashion Week in Paris was a successful end to the fashion weeks.
Why?
Because it whet the appetite for the "new normal" again.
Versace and the new old It pattern
Famous models at Versace - including Irina Shayk as well as Bella and Gigi Hadid
Source: Versace / Carlo Scarpato
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Wait a minute, Donatella Versace doesn't show in Italy?
The traditional brand Versace is actually a highlight of the Milan fashion week, but for this season the label made a short trip to Paris to present its autumn-winter collection.
The guests on the laptop would probably hardly have noticed the change of the venue if the French influence had not been so obvious in the designs.
The brand, whose otherwise exaggeratedly colorful clothes are the uniform of Italian socialite women, this season presented almost exclusively clear lines and unusually delicate silhouettes.
In the midst of the predominantly black fabrics, the only eye-catcher was a new signature pattern: the Greek “Greca” motif.
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Admittedly, this is not completely new, Donatella Versace reinterpreted the old traditional pattern of the fashion house much more - in unmistakably oversized gloves, tights, bags and clothes.
While other brands have already allowed their monograms to dominate their collections in the past few seasons, Versace has only now - but very skillfully - got the Greek pattern from the 90s vintage box.
New wanderlust at Balmain
With his new collection for Balmain, it seemed that creative director Olivier Rousteing only had in mind that he wanted to get back on a plane as soon as possible - and very stylishly.
After a year of Corona, however, this longing is completely understandable.
The themes of travel and locomotion not only influenced fashion itself, but also the way in which it was presented.
Happy to travel: the autumn-winter collection from Balmain
Source: Balmain
Rousteing staged his show in an Air France hangar.
He let the models get out of an airplane with their neck pillows in their luggage and walk on wings instead of a traditional catwalk.
With olive-colored parkas, the ideal garment for long-haul flights, they wore practical crossbody bags equipped with a compass.
The oversized, square sunglasses were reminiscent of the jet set strolling through the airport arrival halls from Paris to Milan.
Chloé becomes sustainable under Gabriela Hearst
Back again, the "Edith" from Chloé
Source: Chloé / Alessandro Viero
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Gabriela Hearst only had a few months to prepare her debut collection for Chloé.
When she was recently appointed the new creative director of the house, she announced that one of her primary goals was not only to create a more contemporary aesthetic, but also to put ecological and social sustainability in the foreground.
And indeed: "By switching to environmentally friendly raw materials, the collection is four times more sustainable than last year," said the chief designer with Uruguayan roots about her current designs.
The optically very hippiesque and close to nature.
Hearst completely eliminated artificial fibers such as polyester or viscose from the range - instead using recycled and plant-based fabrics.
For example, more than 50 percent of the silk is organically grown and more than 80 percent of the cashmere used in knitwear is recycled.
And bags, like the relaunched “Edith” model, are now lined with natural linen instead of plastic or silk.
She proved that Hearst really stands behind her collection when she walked the catwalk as a model in her own creation at the end of the show.
Gabriela Hearst on the catwalk at Chloé
Source: Chloé
Chanel brings back the night life
Accessories for future party life at Chanel
Source: Chanel
In January 2021, Chanel had invited a few selected muses from the traditional brand as guests to the Grand Palais for the haute couture show.
For decades, this location has served as the institution of every Chanel show - in 2017 Lagerfeld let rockets soar there, in 2014 he transformed the venerable building into a fashion supermarket.
The Grand Palais is now closed for renovation.
That is why the new prêt-à-porter show was not just filmed in a different location, but took place entirely behind closed doors.
Plus-size model Jill Kortleve at Chanel
Source: Courtesy of Chanel
In the almost 20-minute fashion film by the French luxury brand, dim black and white scenes are combined with traditional catwalk walks by the models - staged in the Parisian nightclub "Castel".
It almost seems like the models are throwing a party for themselves.
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The film shows how they style and apply make-up before they flaunt their looks in the narrow hallways of the club - and then disappear into the basement.
The new collection consisted of ski overalls, voluminous fur jackets and winter boots as well as shiny metallic coats and glamorous party outfits.
A bold mix presented by creative director Virginie Viard.
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A printed color therapy at Loewe
“Dear reader, the Loewe show has been canceled, but our lives go on,” says the Loewe newspaper.
Creative Director Jonathan Anderson has dared to do something experimental again this season.
Because of course the show was anything but canceled.
And no, it wasn't digitally staged either - like most other brands did.
Instead, it took place in a retro version that was in love with the past.
Together with the design team from M / M Paris, Anderson staged the entire collection in the form of a newspaper.
Newspaper instead of a show at Loewe
Source: Loewe
Together with a letter opener and a booklet containing a passage from Danielle Steel's latest novel “The Affair”, the newspaper was packed in a simple tin box.
And the fashion?
Extremely colorful, with sculptural shapes and metallic decorations.
So exuberant that Anderson explicitly said in a press release afterwards that this type of “color therapy” should be read as his answer to the current crisis.
Paul Walker's daughter opens at Givenchy
The ten-minute Givenchy video showed a set in an industrial space - fashion combined with dark nightlife.
Male and female models walked through labyrinthine metal walkways before a spot was aimed at one of the models from above and the show began.
It was the 22-year-old Meadow Walker, daughter of the 2013 actor Paul Walker, who opened the show.
After the death of her father, best known for starring in the "Fast and Furious" series, things went quiet for the teenager.
Meadow Walker on the catwalk at Givenchy
Source: Courtesy of Givenchy
Today Meadow Walker is under contract with the New York agency "DNA Models" and is well booked.
She started the year with an advertising campaign for Proenza Schouler, followed by a runway show for the label during New York Fashion Week - which also debuted Kamala Harris' stepdaughter Ella Emhoff.
In contrast to Emhoff, Walker is not a new discovery of the season - 2.5 million people already follow her on Instagram.
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