Is the future romantic: faux fur in dystopian plush at Prada
Source: via REUTERS
Almost like before: a highly anticipated debut at the women's fashion shows in Milan a week ago.
With real models showing off bitchy, glamorous fashion in front of real people in the Cittadella degli Archivi, flanked by high-tech shelves full of plants and with the corridor that calls out unmistakably “Fashion!”: Hips forward, feet directly in front of each other, energetically into the light of the cameras and then striding into the darkness of the backstage.
They wore high heels, high-slit casino dresses, models in special colors such as lemon yellow or purple-rain-violet, with fake marabou feathers that looked deceptively real.
The designer Daniel Del Core had called his first collection "Zero", but it didn't feel like a test run at all.
Before founding his own label, the German was responsible for decorating stars at Gucci, so his specialty is the big appearance.
His fashion for fall 2021 reflected the fundamental mood of the fashion world.
The urgent wish that the existential worries and identity crisis of the luxury industry will be over and that the carousel of vanities and desires will turn again.
Maybe faster than ever.
Brand new: disco fashion by Daniel Del Core
Source: Courtesy of Valerio Mezzanotti for Del Core
Paul Andrew, the creative director of Ferragamo, is also looking ahead. He has streamlined and modernized the once rock-solid house since he came to power.
He had taken a special step with his new collection, he said in a Zoom interview two days before the presentation and grinned happily: His show is a homage to the science fiction films of his youth: “Blade Runner”, “Star Wars "," Gattaca ".
The models wore semi-transparent pants and dresses made of biodegradable plastic, there were colored biker outfits that looked like a quote from the early work of the recently deceased visionary Pierre Cardin, a light blue nappa leather overall, a chain dress (also in a breastless version) and leather coats and dresses can be crumpled up without them losing their shape.
You would expect nothing else from a collection called “Future Positive”.
“After every major crisis, the dress codes have changed,” says Andrew. “We don't yet know exactly what to expect.
But I cannot imagine that we will go back to the old, rigid rules. ”But he believes in the big performance: The long-fiber dresses are functional clothing for the red carpet.
“Mega drama”, Andrew calls it, and that also applies to the shiny metallic shoes.
Retrofuturistic biker dress with matching boots at Ferragamo
What the near future brings also moves others.
“Do you feel like a machine sometimes?
What utopia do you dream of?
Is the future a romantic idea for you? ”- these are three of the many questions with which Prada somehow wants to involve its fans for the new“ Dialogues ”campaign.
In the specific work of Miuccia Prada and her new sparring partner Raf Simons, the answer is pretty clear.
They sent their models through the colorful, fluffy, abstract and dystopian rooms that Rem Koolhaas' office designed for them.
It was the perfect fusion of tastes: Prada's ironic, colorful ugly prints, Simons' deliberately awkward silhouettes, unsteady gait on soft ground.
The coats with the inappropriately protruding lining on the collar are fantastic, but the overall effect is similar to the feeling of well-being when listening to a greatest hits album: very homely, but not necessarily further.
No wonder that you ask your own customers about the future.
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