Italian, headstrong and proud, Luca watches for hours, sitting on one of the wooden chairs inside his delicatessen-restaurant, the front door of a place that since the beginning of the pandemic seems mined earth.

Its imported products and the oxtail that it cooks at home at night are expensive whims that the neighborhood, not so well off so long ago, has been giving up as it exhausted its savings and more families wonder if the Christmas extra will be the last nomi

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