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You have to come up with the idea first.
In a year that is widely regarded as the worst in the history of the modern luxury market, to launch a product line that is much more expensive than anything the brand has ever offered - and thus seems to contradict its own message, history and philosophy.
Sounds like a commercial suicide mission.
Or at least after a hearty game of poker.
The Italian jewelry brand Pomellato did just that.
The company, founded in 1967, is known for its medium-priced jewelry with heavy stones in bold colors.
Since 2013 it has been part of the Kering Group, which also has Gucci, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta in its portfolio.
In the summer of 2020, the Milanese presented their “La Gioia” collection, 165 pieces of jewelery that cost up to 260,000 euros, the concept of which Sabina Belli, CEO of Pomellato since 2015, describes: “More stones, more diamonds”.
Pomellato thus advanced into the area of so-called haute joaillerie, if you will the haute couture of the jewelry industry.
Handmade unique pieces for a wafer-thin, global group of buyers.
Luxury versus the luxury crisis.
What was she thinking?
The colorful necklace "Plastron Nudo"
Source: Pomellato
“It never occurred to me to postpone the launch,” said the manager during a telephone interview shortly before the Christmas break.
She has just landed in Paris with Ryanair, as she emphasizes without resentment but with a touch of amazement (in her salary category you only fly with low-cost airlines if all other flights have been canceled): “There are so many rumors at the moment about the Corona-related difficulties when traveling.
In fact, it runs pretty smoothly, ”she says, and that sets the tone.
She has three now grown-up daughters, is one of the few company bosses in her branch and exudes energy and determination even over a broken telephone line.
“La Gioia”: This is the name of the new line from Pomellato, whose pieces cost up to 260,000 euros
Source: Pomellato
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She talks about employees with children in homeschooling and not enough space to work in the apartment, of disposable masks and disinfectant gel, of the complete overhaul of work processes, as many companies somehow had to manage in the past year.
“I met with the individual departments, was in the studios of our jewelers and goldsmiths.
I felt it was my duty to keep to the schedule. "When she presented the new collection, the journalists were impressed that all the pieces were made during the lockdown:" Even in a crisis, dreams can come true. "
Insane use of materials
How should you put it, they are pretty blatant dreams.
The “Gourmette Caméléon”, for example, is a classic choker, a chain that sits close to the neck and has 30 twisted links set with stones of different colors: sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, spinels, tsavorites, garnets, rubies, tanzanites, aquamarines, topazes and diamonds form a rainbow of precious stones.
The joke about this design is the absurdity of the material used, combined with an idea of the captivating simplicity of a fortune cookie.
In fact, a chain for everyday wear - if you happen to be married to Jeff Bezos.
“More stones, more diamonds”: This is the motto of the 165-piece collection for which Belli is responsible
Source: Pomellato
“We have always assumed that our customers are looking for jewelry for everyday use from us.
The very good piece that stays in the safe because you never find the opportunity for it was never our thing, ”Belli describes the previous Pomellato strategy.
“But La Gioia still has the same spirit.
The pieces were sold quickly. "In fact, it was actually an advantage to take the new step during the pandemic:" There was less going on, so the collection was better noticed. "
The "Gourmette Caméléon" from the high-priced "La Gioia" collection
Source: Pomellato
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To outsiders it may seem strange to bring ultra-luxury to market in the midst of a humanitarian and economic crisis.
Belli answers such questions with suppleness and routine: “We also have people who are dependent on their jobs.
Our world is deeply divided.
The rich will always have money to spend.
And I wanted to show the world that beauty prevails. ”In addition, the favorite argument of Italian fashion companies, they actively maintain tradition:“ We have 100 goldsmiths working.
It is our mission to keep their craft alive. "
Rational design meets a spirit of freedom
In addition, carefree is part of the essence of the brand.
Signora Belli is in top form when she can talk about the beginnings of Pomellato, which, in their interpretation, lead to one of her central themes: the role of women in society - and what needs to be changed about it.
“We combine the strict, rational design of Northern Italy - don't forget how gray Milan can be!
- with the spirit of freedom of the 60s and 70s. ”Company founder Pino Rabolini designed jewelry for the tall women of Milan who combined caftans and fabrics from India or Morocco with precious jewels, continues Belli.
“He saw a new generation of women growing up: more active, freer, more independent.
They didn't want to wait for the jewelry their husbands gave them. "
Belli is still committed to this spirit of independence to this day.
“At some point you have to ask yourself as a woman: What is the price for a career?
And the answer is: you will not be a mother who can be there for her children every moment.
But that doesn't matter.
Better a working mother than a frustrated one. ”And with her, that is what makes a successful manager today, gender policy is seamlessly integrated into company strategy.
And vice versa.
“Even today it has a smack when a woman buys jewelry for herself.
If men buy a car or some other toy, that's not a problem. ”That's why 74 percent women work for her.
“We are also in the majority at management level,” she says.
That is why Pomellato founded the Sisterhood Initiative aimed at self-encouragement - and works with women such as the Italian mega-influencer Chiara Ferragni, a kind of folk hero, or the equestrian and horse breeder Princess Matilde Borromeo.
There is even a reference to the company name, which means “piebald horse” in German, but above all she is promoting the second new collection “Fantina”, which in turn means “female jockey”.
Rider Princess Matilde Borromeo with jewelry from the also new, organically curved “Fantina” collection
Source: Pomellato
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Before you get lost in company mythology, a few key words about an industry that has changed massively in recent years.
Young, independent brands challenged the big ones, a new generation of consumers is paying close attention to the origin and production method of gold and precious stones.
Men's jewelry?
“Very interesting, but above all for our second brand Dodo.” Watches?
"No problem.
Young people have enough phones. ”Jewelry from independent brands?
“As important as streetwear for the fashion industry.
But the next few years won't be easy for such companies. ”Sustainability?
“We can track every raw product.
We must too.
The next generation spends their money very differently.
I can already see that with my daughters. "
You have to ask this sensible woman a bit, but when it comes to gemstones, she is not free from romantic ideas either.
“Stones are divine because of their perfection, their beauty, their colors, their unimaginably long process of creation.
When you touch certain stones, you feel healing. ”Although she also emphasizes that jewelry is the perfect investment:“ Even with art, you can be wrong.
A piece of jewelry does not lose its value.
Or it is inherited.
But it shows you a harsh reality: people die.
Stones don't. ”They are like the legendary memento mori in ancient Rome, when a slave whispered in the ear of the successful general during his triumphal procession:“ Remember that you too are mortal. ”And then Sabina Belli says goodbye with a sentence that will accompany you the next time you buy jewelry: “Every diamond was once a piece of coal.
You feel a bit ridiculous as a person. "
Classic: Pomellato jewelry - for women who don't want to wait for their husbands to give them a piece of jewelry
Source: Pomellato
This text is from WELT AM SONNTAG. We will be happy to deliver them to your home on a regular basis.
Source: Welt am Sonntag