Its deep forests and fortified villages seem straight out of a Grimm brothers' tale. There are few regions as magical as Alsace. Mountainous and full of mystery, it will delight visitors with its wild nature, its cultural heritage, its gastronomic and wine-growing wealth. In What if we left? on Europe 1, columnist Jean-Bernard Carillet, also author at Lonely Planet , reviews the region's must -sees , but also invites us to discover some wonders off the beaten track.
A wine route unlike any other ...
From Marlenheim to Thann, the Alsace Wine Route is a sumptuous 170km route from north to south. It is a bit like the image of happy Alsace, that of the old towns still fortified where cascades of geraniums flow down from the half-timberings, that of the innumerable romantic castles, deep forests, pink reflections of sandstone, that of the mountain pastures of one side and the plain on the other, that of unfussy inns where flammenkueche is served in a dark wood setting that seems unchanged for decades, that of opulent winegrowers' houses, with their tasting cellars .
The best time to travel the wine route is in September (the days are still beautiful and quite long), but especially in October and at the beginning of November, when the vines begin to draw gradually on the red and when the harvest gives the region a very special atmosphere. It's the perfect wine season!
... lined with small medieval towns
There are grandiose stages not to be missed, with doll villages, such as Kaysersberg and Riquewihr, and of course Colmar! But the stopover that we prefer is that of Eguisheim. This pretty medieval town is not like the others: its cobbled streets wind like a ribbon around the old center.
Medieval villages that line the wine route, Eguisheim is one of the most charming. © PATRICK HERTZOG / AFP
Let us not forget either Turckheim, a pretty city that is unlike any other thanks to its night watchman, who officiates every day from May 1 to October 31, from 10 p.m. sharp. In the Middle Ages, the night watchman passed through the streets to announce the hours of the night and made sure that no candle remained lit, to avoid the risk of fire. This tradition was brought up to date 50 years ago.
For 1h30, the night watchman becomes a guide, and leads you through the streets of the village in several stations, singing and explaining the village, its monuments and its traditions. He is dressed in traditional attire: tricorn hat, halberd, horn and lantern. Plus, it's free.
Take a little altitude, in the Vosges
Direction the Ballon d'Alsace, at an altitude of 1,247 m. It is easily accessible by car, to discover a magnificent panorama of the Jura and the Alps. The ideal: a night in a bivouac, to take advantage of the beautiful grazing lights of the evening and the early morning. Olivier Pohl, mountain guide, offers this bivouac formula at the Ballon d'Alsace. We set up the hammocks protected by a tent, we light a fire, we taste a fondue, and we listen to Olivier's stories about life in the mountains. The next day at dawn, the highlight of the show: observe a herd of chamois frolicking in the grass.
In the Northern Vosges, travelers can try their hand at sylvotherapy, a major trend at the moment. This is a kind of "green bath", which you can practice in the forest of Petite Pierre. The walk lasts about two hours, punctuated by stops during which the walker is invited to do breathing exercises. We work on anchoring, feelings, self-awareness, in particular through contact with trees: beeches, oaks, and other conifers that grow in number in the Vosges mountains.
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A city to discover?
Mulhouse is largely underestimated by tourist routes. Of course, there are no half-timbered houses, but the city has a remarkable old industrial heritage. Starting with the Cité de l'Automobile, the largest automobile museum in the world with 400 models installed in a former textile factory. The visit takes on the appearance of a journey through time, with legendary models: Bugatti, 2 CV, Panhard & Levassor, Lotus….
Until November 1st, you can live an extraordinary experience: driving a mythical collector's vehicle on the Autodrome. Laps, new driving sensations behind the wheel of a Corvette, a Chevrolet, a Lamborghini, a Cadillac, or even a Mustang. It is even possible to extend the experience for half a day on the Wine Route.
The Mulhouse museum contains the largest collection of automobiles in the world. © SEBASTIEN BOZON / AFP
Enjoy a fried carp in the Sundgau
Sundgau, in the very south of the region on the Swiss border, near the Jura, unfolds a landscape of mountains and ponds. It is the land of witches and elves, steeped in mystery. This is a little corner of paradise, for the Alsatians themselves, who come to taste the local specialty in one of the many inns: carp and chips.