Known for his taste for tropical climates, the writer Ernest Hemingway was seduced, in his youth, by the cool mountains of Vorarlberg. It is indeed difficult for lovers of the great outdoors to resist the alpine charm of western Austria! Between Lake Constance and the Tyrolean peaks, this region lends itself, in summer, to sporty hikes as well as to bucolic strolls.
Punctuated by gastronomic and architectural discoveries, a trip to the westernmost of the Austrian “lands” is an opportunity to meet some celebrities on vacation in Lech, but above all to get to know the real stars of the region: the Braunvieh. These brown cows with black-rimmed eyes aestate at heights where the pastures are covered with flowers. This is the secret of their perfumed milk from which the famous bergkäse and other almkäse are produced .
Efforts and comfort
To enjoy these alpine cheeses without worrying too much about their caloric impact, the Bregenzerwald sector has created a series of culinary hikes that can be booked in hotels, tourist offices or on the Internet. The principle is tasty: an envelope is given to participants with a detailed itinerary in French as well as three vouchers to be exchanged for breakfast, lunch and a snack in alpine or village establishments.
Departing from Mellau for example, this gourmet treasure hunt begins at Bergrestaurant Simma de Rossstelle, which you can reach early in the morning by cable car. Walter, the boss, goes in person to fetch the fresh milk he offers on his gourmet buffet, alongside the riebel , the typical morning dish made from semolina in butter and apple in syrup. After this appetizer, it's time for action! It is a question of climbing to the assault of Kanisfluh on the slopes of which one progresses among the cows, in a concert of clarines. These two hours of effort are rewarded at the Edelweiss chalet restaurant with a nice plate of wälder käsknöpfle , fresh pasta topped with melted cheese. Then comes the time to turn back towards Mellau where a delicious apple strudel awaits the brave walkers at the Hotel Bären.
This locality with traditional houses covered with shingles is also an opportunity to take an interest in local architecture. A real movement initiated in the 1980s allowed Vorarlberg to keep its rural spirit while switching to modernity. Based on sustainability, the use of local woods and integration into the landscape, this remarkable architecture is also the subject of thematic routes, playful and very well documented “Architectours”.
Trip
Reunion: an island with Dantesque landscapes, cut out for hiking
Trip
Athens has been worshiping good food since Antiquity
Go
Neighboring Switzerland, Vorarlberg is a 1h40 drive from Zurich, which Lyria trains can reach in 4h from Paris.
Good plan
For any stay of more than three nights in the Bregenzerwald area, hotels will issue their customers with a card allowing them to use public transport free of charge. In Lech, it is from the first night that visitors benefit from a card with many associated advantages: transport, ski lifts, etc.
Housing
At the foot of Kanisfluh, in the village of Au, the Hotel Krone is the meeting place for French-speaking visitors to the Bregenzerwald. The Lingg family, who have run this 4-star establishment for several generations, strive to enhance their terroir by using local and sustainable resources.
Information
The Holiday Info Service of the Austrian National Tourist Office advises and documents French travelers free of charge by email: vacances@austria.info; or by phone: 00800.400. 200. 00
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