"Because Liang Hongyu hasn't set off on the battle in" Fighting Golden Mountain ", his armor has been loosened. The master in my team, he can't get Su Xiu." Shang Xirui sang famous in Beiping, as long as he met In the play, the young horn was particularly competitive. He held a magnifying glass to check the customized costumes, and he didn't miss a single thread.

Recently, the period drama "Bianbian is not Begonia Red" has heated up a lot of topics. More than 20 Peking operas, five or six Kunqu operas, eighty-nine genres of Danjiao, and the development history of operas involved in the play have enthusiastically attracted old fans. The setting and clothing of the restoration era are also deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. Gorgeous costumes, elegant cheongsam, and fashionable dresses are exquisite and exquisite. There are also the appearances of the "non-heritage" of Beijing Embroidery, Soviet Embroidery and other countries, showing the charm of traditional culture to the audience.

The mastery of the details of the film and television drama on the clothing road directly affects the texture of the work. "Just one process of makeup can identify whether the work has the basis of quality dramas and high-quality dramas." Associate Professor Li Bu of Shanghai Theater Academy has long been committed to the study of ancient Chinese makeup history. "Makeup shows not only the understanding of characters, It is even more a recognition of cultural history. Costume drama and period drama are undoubtedly the best platform to showcase culture, but there is still a lot of room for improvement in the research and design of these types of makeup. "

Simple copying is easy to “take the wrong set”, and the makeup of the costume drama is very particular

Costume drama is one of the most favored types in the market. Historical, fantasy, martial arts, and fairy knight themes are emerging endlessly, but costume drama is also the “heavy disaster area” for makeup design. Recently, many costume dramas such as "Datang Female Forensic Doctor", "Three Life III Pillow Letters", "Kyushu Sky City 2", "My Son, I'm Married", and "Spiritual Master 3" have been launched collectively. Actors seem to share a makeup artist Stylist. "You will not find any problems when you go to the wrong studio." "You can just take off the ancient costumes and put them on modern ones" ... On the barrage, netizens have teased some makeup designs that are not "out of mind".

In the B community, Douban, Zhihu and other online communities, the 87th edition of "Dream of the Red Mansion" designed by Yang Shuyun, the 93-year movie "Yang Guifei", the TV series "Tang Ming Emperor", "Wu Zetian", "The Wrong Sedan Wedding Couple" and other costume drama Makeup is used as a textbook, and is highly sought after by drama fans, ancient culture lovers, and even beauty bloggers. The 160 shapes designed by Yang Shuyun for "Dream of Red Mansions" are particularly classic, and each has its own style, which is unforgettable.

The novel "A Dream of Red Mansions" does not have a clear year direction, but Yang Shuyun opened up a huge space for historical imagination. Lin Daiyu's eyebrows are high and low at the front, thin and soft. The inspiration for this "sorrowful eight-character eyebrow" comes from "The Makeup Table", showing her morbid beauty. The same willow leaf eyebrow, Wang Xifeng's "willow leaf hanging eyebrow" was improved in combination with the characters, and the arrogant temperament of not being angry was revealed instantly.

With the same make-up tools, the two heroines of "Bingyan" and "Li Yuhu" of "Wen" and "Wu" in "The Wrong Wedding Secret Marriage" have prominent personalities. Therefore, some people say that the costumes and costumes of the ancient costumes were thousands of faces, and now they are the same. Why has the industry of film and television developed, but makeup has gone backwards? Today, costume dramas are more tied to IP and traffic, and the ultimate pursuit of quality often gives way to the need for capital to quickly pursue profit. Under the beauty filter, "Korean semi-permanent large flat eyebrows + thick eyelashes + thick eye shadow" has become a common practice.

"Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing" have been transformed from ancient times to the present. A makeup template was copied and pasted, reflecting the shallowness and laziness of some market creators. As Yang Shuyun said, in the final analysis, it is the lack of love and awe of China's five thousand years of tradition.

Just the eyebrow shape, there are no less than ten painting methods for fashion women in the Tang Dynasty

"In terms of grooming themselves, the ancient Chinese may be more advanced and wiser than modern people in terms of ideas and methods." Li Ya introduced that the popular aesthetics of the Chinese dynasties have their own beauty and rich cultural resources. It is a huge treasure box. From tattoos and painted faces in primitive society to Chinese women in the Shang and Zhou dynasties, they began to apply fat and powder. After the bold innovation of the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, ancient makeup reached its peak in the Tang Dynasty. "The culture of the Tang Dynasty was open and open. In the pursuit of beauty, Tang women were really bold and imaginative."

"Our national makeup culture has a rich and long history, and many elements are still out of date today. If beauty bloggers of all dynasties have broadcast live, the battle for makeup looks must be beyond imagination." Li Bu said, "In terms of the innovativeness of makeup, we 'Oriental Venus' absolutely have the right to speak."

Just the eyebrow shape, the Tang Dynasty women designed no less than ten. According to legend, Tang Minghuang's seasonal painter made ten eyebrow pictures, there are squint eyebrows (also known as eight-character eyebrows), small eyebrows (also known as Yuanshan eyebrows), Wuyue eyebrows, three peak eyebrows, drow eyebrow eyebrows, moon edge eyebrows, split eyebrows, and Han Yan Eyebrows, eyebrows (also called horizontal smoke eyebrows), dizzy eyebrows and so on. Tang women also like to wear black lipstick, inspired by Hu makeup. Bai Juyi once wrote "Time Makeup", which has a vivid interpretation of this: "Wujiang's lips and lips are like mud, and double eyebrows are painted with a low figure."

Regarding make-up, the Tang Dynasty beauties were also quite experienced. Tang Yuwen's "Makeup Table": Beauty makeup, face powder, complexion with rouge, palms, cheeks, thicker "wine halo makeup", lighter "peach makeup", thin Zhu Zhu, Use powder to apply it as Feixia makeup. The "sunburn makeup" that was popular for a while was the rest of the Tang people's play. In the past, Princess Wencheng went to Tibet, and people from the Red Nation came to worship. Since these people lived in the plateau, their skin was "sunburned". Since then, this kind of facial makeup has emerged.

And two kinds of unique make-up faces-oblique red and noodles are also very popular in history. The oblique red rose in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Xue Wenlai, the palace man of Emperor Wei Wendi, was injured by a falling screen, and he used rouge imitation to cover the scars on the temples. Over time, it was imitated by the folks. In the popular process, it gradually reduced to Crescent. Turning scars into beauty is the cultural wisdom of the ancients. There are "broken makeup" covering the cheeks with five-colored mica as the calyx, "crimping makeup" with pear cream and rain under the eyes, and "Xu Fei half-face makeup" that paints only half of the face ... countless types of makeup .

By the time of the Tang Dynasty, the noodles had developed a variety of styles from two dots at the dimples. They had coins similar to coins, peach blossoms similar to apricots, and flower blossoms similar to flowers. This makeup even became popular in the Ming Dynasty, forming a unique element-Tuanyu, the beautiful people cut black fish paper into the shape of a fish, make a face makeup and paste it on the forehead, showing a white complexion like cream.

National makeup is a reflection of Chinese aesthetic spirit, which has caused a wave in recent years

In recent years, "Chinese makeup" has repeatedly triggered waves in Japan, South Korea, and even parts of Europe and the United States. Japanese fashion magazine "Seventeen" has also made a special plan. Compared to the cuteness of Japanese makeup and the sexy of Korean makeup, Chinese makeup is "the most female independent will" and "independent and not charming" ... The imitation makeup boom of Chinese makeup is also Repeatedly appear on video sites in multiple countries.

Li Bu believes that the essence of Chinese makeup is to focus on the eyebrows and lips. The overall makeup is clear and atmospheric, without too much sweet touch. In the development of Chinese makeup in modern times, this essence runs through and is a Chinese aesthetic. The reflection of the spirit, "European and American makeup pays attention to three-dimensional perspective. Chinese makeup is painted on a flat surface, showing the blood and energy of women in chromaticity, and thinks that the most beautiful state of women is the health emitted from the inside out."

National makeup culture has become a detail display of the wisdom of traditional Chinese culture. The different understandings of beauty in the East and the West determine the differences in the manufacturing concepts and methods of cosmetics. The west pays attention to "separation of beauty and care", while the east "considers beauty and care", make-up must have skin care function. All in all, the ancient Chinese cosmetic formula embodies the principle of "the heavens and the earth, the earth has the air, the materials are beautiful, and the craftsmanship is clever", advocating the wisdom of nature and harmony. Li Bu has worked in the field of researching and restoring ancient cosmetics and skincare products for more than 20 years. At present, she and her team have successfully restored more than 30 ancient cosmetics products from pre-Qin to the Qing Dynasty, such as red and blue flower rouge, sandal mouth, and official powder. , Chewing gum ... and Wu Zetian's favorite "Peach Girl Peach Pollen", "Red Mansions" the same paragraph "Jasmine Jasmine Powder" and so on.

"Pinger Lizhuang" in "A Dream of Red Mansions" mentioned a method called "Mazda powder", which is unique in that it discards lead powder, grinds and steams the purple jasmine seeds, and then uses unopened The host flower is cut off and the jasmine pollen is filled into the host flower. "Many methods of making cosmetics are scattered in secular readings, which is a certain degree of difficulty in organizing and discovering." Li Ya said.

For example, Chinese medicine books such as Qianqinfang, Compendium of Materia Medica, and Elbow Reserve Emergency Formula, and "Encyclopedia of Pesticides" such as "Qi Min Yao Shu" contain the methods of making ancient cosmetics. In literary works such as "Dream of Red Mansions", "Jin Ping Mei" and "Yi Lin Guang Ji", there are also descriptions of makeup and skin care products. The classic medical books of all ages have provided medical protection for the beauty of ancient China. However, the disadvantages are that the materials are mostly scattered and fragmented, some secret recipes are even family-style heritage, and some are out of protection for technology, vague in dosage, or formula for key medicinal materials. Intentional neglect, etc., caused great difficulty to the overall research and restoration.

Although the research on ancient makeup is relatively unpopular, the precious cultural heritage left by traditional Chinese culture is like a treasure mine, and there are countless historical materials that can be excavated. As scholars have said, the essence of national makeup, "making things on time, taking into account both inside and outside," is full of Chinese philosophy and wisdom, and has a unique concept of creation.

■ Reporter Tong Weijing