• Lorenzo Caprile: "If this lasts much longer, I will ask permission to set up a campaign workshop"

He is famous for dressing Anne Igartiburu every December 31 to give the chimes on television, also for being a jury for the 'Masters of Sewing' program and for signing the wedding dresses of many Spanish celebrities. He was extremely successful when he made for Queen Letizia a spectacular red ball gown with which he fell in love with European royalty at the wedding of Frederick and Mary of Denmark. But what few people know is that Lorenzo Caprile treasures a huge collection of antique clothing and accessories made up of around 10,000 pieces from different origins. Today she wanted to show part of this wardrobe in Yo Dona, through the presenter and good friend of hers Raquel Sánchez Silva, who poses with some of the most valuable creations.

I DONATE When did you start collecting dresses and accessories? Lorenzo Caprile He was very small, he was 13 or 14 years old and he always went shopping with my mother. How many pieces do you treasure? I think about 10,000, because I have been acquiring many shoes and belts. Bags I keep less. Do you also advise other collectors? No, what is it, I prefer to continue with my workshop, to mine. This is just a hobby. How did you select the models that Raquel Sánchez Silva wears in these photos? I mentioned the names of the creators that I would like them to be because of their importance in fashion history: Pedro Rodríguez, Elio Berhanyer and Pertegaz , but it was Isabel Moralejo, Fashion director of the magazine, who made this exquisite selection. I was delighted that he chose the Manuel Piña trench coat , because it is a great reference for those of my generation. I am also very happy to show Felisa Irigoyen's dress. She was Balenciaga's shop manager and when it closed, she settled on her own. We had a very close relationship and when he left his atelier he gave me many costumes. Of all the ones you have, which one is your favorite? I don't have one in particular, they all seem wonderful to me. But I remember one that I bought at a bargain price. Every month they put everything in the stores of the Human Foundation for a euro and you have to dig a lot. On one of those occasions, I found a shirtmaker from the 70s by a French-American creator named Pauline Trigère, and she gave me a high rush. To place the dressmaker, in the movie 'Breakfast with diamonds' Givenchy dressed Audrey Hepburn and Pauline Trigère did it with Patricia Neal (the writer's lover played by George Peppard). I recommend his biography because it has a fascinating story. He came to New York, like many others, fleeing from World War II and is a fundamental figure in the American fashion of the 60s and 70s. I was very lucky, because when I studied there, in my youth, I had the opportunity to meet her. Why Raquel Sánchez Silva as a model for these suits? Because in addition to having a great body, she is very female and I like that. I prefer her to a model that looks like girls. Realize that those of my generation saw real women parading, like Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford ... I am happy with the result. This collection and your way of working show that it is normal for you to reuse clothes. Do you think the industry will become more sustainable? Controlling all the processes and materials involved in the manufacture of a dress, from the fabric to the buttons or zippers, is very complicated, practically impossible to achieve one hundred percent. Today's ecological discourse seems very nice to me, but also utopian. Also, the consumer is used to buying a lot. I do not know if we will be able to reverse it. Your work philosophy has always been to consume less and better. Yes, because I do custom fashion. Nor do I have the means or the infrastructure to set up a production chain. I'm not worth it. Have you lent pieces from your personal archive for some women to see? Yes, many times, I like that they are used, that's why I have given them to several friends: Raquel Sánchez Silva, for example, and Julia Martínez, head of Styling from Telva, too. With so much jewel, haven't you thought about showing them in an exhibition? Yes, from 'Masters of Sewing' they are helping me to look for financing, although at the moment it is difficult to find an ideal place to do it. The Costume Museum, for example, would be perfect, but it is under construction and it is a shame, because in addition to being the right location, I am very in tune with its director, Helena López del Hierro.

This is how Raquel Sánchez Silva looks some of the pieces that Lorenzo Caprile treasures in his collection

Is everything made up in fashion? Yes, now the work that is presented as new is always a rehash of old things, the result of a stylized work elevated to the cube. As an expert, what do you think is the golden age of sewing? There were several decades, between 1925 and 1960, when perfection was touched. Even in the middle of World War II, that glorious stage continued, because production moved to the United States. The apparent simplicity and modernity of the time were spectacular. In addition, the lifestyle helped a lot. And in Spain? There was also a golden and glorious time, between the late 50s to the 70s. In 1940 the Cooperativa de la Alta Costura (Barcelona) was created and managed to So, in addition to parading their creations at the Fashion Show in Spain, they would go out of our country to show their work. With these initiatives and their expertise they achieved such prestige that the most select international press came here to photograph the collections. Spanish was very popular because there were great workshops and they made wonderful costumes that cost 10 times less than in Paris. That is why Balenciaga produced so much in its ateliers in Barcelona, ​​Madrid and San Sebastián. All these garments would be jewelry today. Any advice for those who are starting out in the art of collecting now? Start with small and simple pieces, better if they are accessories, such as a handbag, a headdress, a brooch or a scarf. Then, little by little, they acquire more garments. In order not to fail, it is best to invest in the tailoring of the 70s and 80s, a coat, a pea coat, a blazer or a suit.

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