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The table of Els caçadors is a still life with trays of calçots , lamb chops and mountain rice, among other zero kilometer dishes. Ramón Pau, owner of this restaurant with a hundred years of history in Ribas de Fresser, cannot be a better ambassador for this corner of the Ripollés surrounded by 2,000 meters high mountains. "Only 200 meters from here, nature gives you a slap that you don't need or Netflix, or anything," he says. You just have to look up to prove it right.
Truffled by footpaths, the pre-Pyrenean town where the Freser, Rigard and Segadell rivers meet swells to fans among hiking enthusiasts, landscape romantics, those who crave breaths of fresh air and seek to reconnect with nature.
It is also here that the Vall de Núria cogwheel train is taken, the only means to access the endearing mountain station of the same name. Its wagons ascend the steep 12.5 kilometers overcoming a slope of more than 1,000 meters. And they have been doing it since 1931 , whether winter or summer, curling up between flowers or snowy slopes. The emotion is contagious at the end of the journey when the sanctuary and the skiable domain between peaks that are around 3,000 meters appear before the passenger.
A warning before gliding through the small station: Núria has character. "If you know how to ski here, you can ski anywhere ," says Marta Morés, official mountain guide. Note that among its 7.6 kilometers of skiing there are red and black slopes that require expertise.
TREE BATHROOM
An alternative to the boards is to put on some rackets. The only requirement is the desire to exercise and enjoy nature. If you also go with a guide as Marc Umberger, of Oxineu, you soak fauna and flora, even with snow. "Do you see that family of sarrios that go down to the forest?" He says when he discovers a group of Pyrenean chamois.
An initiation excursion with snowshoes leads, for example, to the viewpoint of the lake , from where the whole station is glimpsed. Another highly recommended activity with snowshoes are the night outings at a quiet pace and, those who feel more comfortable, the excursion to Puigmal (2,913 meters), the most emblematic summit of the valley.
Everything can be combined, why not, with mindfulness experiences. It is just what Edgar Tarrés, professor at the University of Girona of well-being and happiness, proposes. "The sounds of the forest are very therapeutic," he explains. "Through the bark, trees emit substances called phytoncides that smell them boost our immune system." Following his instructions, in silence, Tarrés shows a version of the forest bath. It goes in pairs. One acts as a guide. The other, blindfolded, gets carried away. "This helps us to awaken our senses . To connect with the forest."
Already relaxed, it would only be to visit the church, especially if anyone wishes to expand the family. Legend has it that if you put your head in the pot of the sanctuary, and at the same time you ring the bell, you receive the gift of fertility . In any case, with all these doses of sport, creativity and tradition we can descend back to Ribas more than satisfied. Who wants to put a brooch up to date, a slap: the Vents Resguard hotel, in addition to a beautiful name, has a spa that allows you to dive into the water without losing sight of the mountain.
Although there are always those who want more adrenaline. For them, the via ferrata de la Roca de la Cruz is designed, which starts from the same town. "The first section is more vertical, but the second is easier, it is an equipped road," explains Xavi Fanlo, guide of Altitude Extrem, while you comply with the ritual of putting on the harness, the heatsinks, the gloves and the helmet.
They are two and a half hours high and teamwork highly recommended, as long as you do not suffer from vertigo ... And, you know, what has to catch height is that suddenly a whole landscape of majestic mountains opens up before the view that, those below, barely intuit.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
How to get. On the AVE (renfe.com) to Gerona. Ideally, rent a car to tour the Ripollés. The Nuria Zipper starts from Ribas de Freser.
Where to sleep. In the rural hotel Resguard dels Vents (www.hotelresguard.com). With spa, restaurant and views of the Ribas Valley. From 89 euros a night.
More information. In www.valldenuria.cat and es.costabrava.org (Turisme Costa Brava Girona).
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