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Flying in paragliding at almost 4,000 meters, about 500 meters above the highest levels of the Val d'Isère station, in the French Alps, it is understood the charm that awakens among hundreds of thousands of skiers every year (1,375,656 ski passes sold in the 2018-2019 season). Only the wind is heard, barely interrupted by the whistle's beeps that warns the instructor of the proximity of a hot airbag that raises the paraglider above even an eagle that flies over the area.
These birds abound there. In fact, they are the logo of the station. "They were the symbol of the Savoie region until its annexation to France, in 1860," explains Chloé Harlé, of the resort's press. “There are many, and when, in 1936, Charles Diebold opened the first ski school here, he thought it would be a good idea to use it as a badge. In 1970 he was given the current design in which the wings take the form of V, by Val, and the head of I, by Isère ».
Stamped on their cable cars, these other eagles will start flying again on Saturday, when the 2019-2020 season starts, until May 3. Together with the neighboring resort of Tignes in what is known as the Killy Space - in honor of the triple Olympic gold medalist in 1968 local Jean-Claude Killy -, it offers a joint daily pass of 61 euros 300 kilometers of tracks. In Baqueira Beret, the largest station in Spain, 162 kilometers are skiable.
A SPECIAL MICROCLIMATE
The natural conditions of altitude and climate - and the help of 900 artificial snow cannons if necessary, in the renovation of some of which 1.5 million euros have been invested this year - also guarantee that you can ski all the season. «With a maximum altitude of 3,450 meters and a minimum of 1,550 meters and a very particular microclimate in the valley [from 3ºC to -6ºC on average in November] we are probably the most reliable station or one of the most reliable in terms of ensuring the natural snow cover in all the Alps ”, Cécile Ferrando, communication director is proud.
Also one of the most demanding. With mythical tracks like the Face of Bellevarde , Val d'Isère draws a reputation for a perfect season for expert skiers or a certain level, but not so much for beginners. "Over more than 80 years, these slopes have given champions like Henri Oreiller, the Goitschel sisters or Killy himself," says Ferrando; «It is logical that with that competitive past it is perceived as a season for experienced people.
In recent years a lot has been invested in ski lifts that allow beginner skiers to climb to simpler areas on the tops. In areas like Solaise we have a slow ski area, and thanks to very modern gondolas, the less trained can comfortably get down from there without needing to do it skiing ». Of the 77 tracks of Val d'Isère, excluding Tignes, nine are black, 22 red, 30 blue and 16 green.
Less committed to the need to sell the station's benefits , Jean-Noel Gaidet, a veteran ski monitor who knows the Alps well and who nothing particularly binds Val d'Isère , offers a more objective view. "It's a great resort," he says. «With a large amount of terrain for slopes, mostly for intermediate or expert skiers. With so many you can do many tours without skiing twice for the same descent. Off-piste skiing is quite accessible, with many options. For what there are not so many alternatives is for skiing between trees , due to the altitude ».
MICHELIN STARS
But not everything is going to be skiing. In Val d'Isère or its surroundings you can practice paragliding - it takes off sliding down skis on a hillside -, go snowshoeing through the forests of the Vanoise National Park, the first one created in France, try aiming with the carbine in Biathlon races or crazier activities, such as ice driving classes .
Also eat, of course. And eat well. In Le Fornet, a delicious enclave of stone houses and narrow alleys at the end of the valley is L'Atelier d'Edmond , where he officiates with his two Michelin stars Benoit Vidal. More informal, but very refreshing after a descent and ideal for sunbathing if there is luck - from September to June the sky is covered for 60% of the average time - are the appreciable restaurants and brasseries on the slopes . In some areas even the picnic is authorized .
To sleep, we allow ourselves to recommend the Hibou and Pelegrin chalets , two adjoining buildings in the village of Le Miroir, half an hour away by car. It is not only the bucolic location, away from the hustle but only a step away, its alpine charm sculpted in stone, wood and slate roof . It is, above all, the high level of service: private chef, own ski guides, cellar with almost 100 references, sauna, Turkish bath and massage room, transfer from Geneva airport, by helicopter if necessary, reservation of activities and restaurants ... Is to arrive and forget.
Arrebujado in a blanket of mutón next to the telescope, on the terrace of Chalet Hibou , Gonzalo Gimeno, founder and managing partner of Elefant Travel, custom travel agency with offices in Madrid, Barcelona and Bogotá, explains the principle that drives him. «The idea at Le Miroir is to offer a very local experience, but with the level of service of any luxury hotel. It is not for all customers. For others, with another profile, we may design a stay at the Aman de Courchevel [epitome of the Alpine]. It is not so much the destination as the personalized experience, to feel that this is more than a ski trip ».
Next to it the water bubbles at 39.5ºC in the outdoor hot tub in case anyone wants to try. It has dawned a couple of hours or three ago. The sky looks blue like there is no equal in the world, a very characteristic blue on this side of the Alps. The snow shines like the tears of a baby. There is no Instagram filter that can compete with that.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Drop down
How to get. Geneva is the nearest airport, about 2.5 hours. Flights from Spain from 40 euros each way.
Where to sleep. Hibou chalet. Luxurious accommodation for 60,000 euros per week the complete chalet (16 people can fit).
Where to eat L'Atelier d'Edmond. Two Michelin stars. Average ticket: from approximately 125 euros.
L'Etincelle. Restaurant at the foot of the track. Average ticket: from 35 euros.
Price of passes . Full day: 61 euros (49 euros for children under 13). Half day: 43 and 35 euros.
More information On the websites of www.valdisere.com (with webcam to check the status of the tracks in real time) and the agency www.elefant.com.es.
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