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Amsterdam and Rotterdam steal the spotlight. Hence, it does not usually enter the list of essential destinations in the Netherlands. Error. Because Utrecht , the fourth city in size and the oldest (its origins are Roman), has everything you need for a perfect Dutch break. For starters, the local topics (canals, bikes, outdoor markets, tulips in each corner, scandal cheeses ...) are left over. But, in addition, the famous city of the treaty that ended the War of Spanish Succession in 1713 has some of the best museums in the country, it is a shopping paradise (especially for fans of antique dealers and vintage stores) and the most groundbreaking contemporary architecture is becoming strong. As if that were not enough, demanding gourmets and night owls in search of eternal close-up booths place it in their top ten European cities.
The latter has to do with the number of university students that populate its streets: 70,000 of its 330,000 inhabitants. Hence the relaxed atmosphere at any time and the leisure offer that characterize it. As an example, bars with "happy hour" and techno music are all the rage. Of course, here they are not so much coffee shops as in the capital, just 25 minutes by train.
Another of Utrecht's singularities: it aspires to lead shortly the world ranking of cities best suited for cycling , led by Copenhagen and Amsterdam. For something, the oldest enabled lane in the country was inaugurated here in 1885. The city also hosts the world's largest bicycle parking (17,100 m2), a giant of 12,500 seats and three underground levels open 24 hours a day. The figures add up: there are more bikes than inhabitants, exactly 1.8 per person.
Destination for cyclists
With this cover letter, it is clear that this transport is part of the daily landscape of Utrecht. Like its photogenic channels (Lonely Planet has listed it as the city with the most beautiful in Europe, ahead of Amsterdam or Venice), but with a peculiarity: they are the only ones in the world with two levels. The one below, at the water level, is full of old brick basements seen "in which the grain was stored or served as a cellar," explains Sebastiaan Weijmans, of Tourism of Utrecht. Today, they enchant charming cafés with terraces, as well as flirtatious shops and even homes. More of the same in the upper height, already at street level and up (of course) of bicycles coming and going through the cobbled streets of the historic center, with its perfectly preserved medieval layout.
Among its landmarks, Domplein Square stands out, whose tower, separated from the cathedral by a hurricane in 1674, offers the best views of the city after climbing its 465 steps. A curiosity: the tower has 13 bells of up to 8,000 kilos each, so it takes no less than 25 men to move them. Another: "It took so long to rebuild the cathedral that, for years, its ruins were the scene of gay encounters," details guide Raphäel Rijntjes. Hence the expressions Hij komt achter of Dom vandaan ("comes from behind the cathedral") or Utrechtenaar are used as a synonym for homosexuality in Dutch.
In the old town there is also the Town Hall, remodeled by the Catalan architect Enric Miralles , the same as that of the Scottish Parliament or the Santa Caterina market in Barcelona. Another of the key constructions is the house of Pope Adriano VI, the last non-Italian pontiff until John Paul II arrived 455 years later. "The Dutch triumphed in Spain as general inquisitor and right hand of Carlos V," says Rijntjes.
Night route
Once night comes, you have to follow the trail of the Trajectum Lumen, a route on foot through fifteen enclaves of the center transformed into artistic works thanks to minute sets of lights. The tour begins in the Tivoli Vredenburg concert hall ("the largest in Europe and the only one in the world prepared to house all kinds of music, from electronic to jazz to punk", as Lieke Timmermans, Marketing Manager, on site) and ends in Mariaplaats. In between, go through the Cathedral Square, the Ganzenmarkt tunnel (the most successful of Instagram), the City Hall and a good handful of bridges, churches and canals.
Through the latter you can explore the city from the water, whether by kayak, pedal boats, Venetian-style gondolas or on cruise ships that cross the Oudegracht or Canal Viejo , the largest city, with two kilometers long between the ones that follow antiquarians, restaurants of all conditions, galleries, designer shops ... And even a UFO flying over the Central Office of Railways. He settled there years ago to promote a television series. And there it continues.
COFFEE AND HANDCRAFTED BRIEFS
We jump into the hipster neighborhood of Utrecht, Rotsoord, immersed between canals and mills, where creative spaces such as Vechtclub XL have emerged, where designers, architects, chefs, artists, photographers or jewelers expose their work in what were former factories. There are also brewing and coffee masters (2x1) such as Jasper Overdewest, who is in charge of one of the local gourmet restaurants, World-happ Coffee , which serves eco coffee in the morning and craft beer in the afternoon. "There is everything here, from leading companies in interactive panoramas like Globe4D to writers who finance their books through crowfunding (collective financing) projects," says Lotte Walrave, community manage r of Vechtclub XL.
It would be close to the Museum Quarter, where the Santa Catalina Convent Museum stands out, which houses some of Rembrandt's first works, and the Centraal Museum, the oldest in Holland. There, apart from Van Gogh's canvases , is the largest collection of designer Gerrit Rietveld, one of the leaders of the De Stijl artistic movement alongside the painter Piet Mondrian , whose works of geometric lines and pure colors inspired the group. Starting with the famous original red-blue chair by Rietveld (1925), which has become an international icon in the world of design. The most emblematic work of this current, the Schröder House, he also conceived. It is located on Prins Hedriklaan Street and can be visited by appointment.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Drop down
HOW TO GET. Airlines like KLM or Iberia fly to Amsterdam from Spain for 150 euros.
WHERE TO SLEEP The avant-garde Eye Hotel is a perfect option as a base of operations. It occupies the facilities of an old 17th century hospital. From 100 euros a night.
WHERE TO EAT The restaurant Le Jardin also works as a florist. From 30 euros.
The Piatto restaurant offers modern international cuisine with Italian touches in a design space. From 25 euros.
MORE INFORMATION On the Netherlands Tourism websites (in Spanish) and Visit Utrecht
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