Kapok blooms, coffee fruits are ripe, and Baoshan in Yunnan ushered in the fiery coffee picking season. More than 98% of China's coffee is produced in Yunnan. Yunnan small grain coffee is characterized by strong but not bitter, fragrant but not strong, and slightly fruity. Baoshan is the birthplace of China's coffee industrialization, and the small grain coffee produced in Baoshan is the representative of Chinese specialty coffee. As the saying goes, it takes three minutes to brew a good cup of coffee; It takes three years to grow a good plant. Today we will go to Yunnan to see how a specialty coffee bean is born.
When we arrived in Baoshan, Yunnan, it was just in time for the end of the small coffee picking season. Because coffee harvesting can only be done manually, every harvest season, the owner of the coffee plantation, Fan Qizuo, hires hundreds of villagers to help, which also creates opportunities for everyone to increase their income.
Fanqizo is known by the locals as a master coffee grower, not only because of the good quality of his coffee, but also because of the high altitude of his coffee plantation, which reaches about 1800 meters. So why did Fan Qizuo's family stick to this mountain where there was no mobile phone signal? The answer is for this special coffee – Guixia.
Fan Qizuo's father and grandfather were coffee farmers, and he is a typical "third generation of coffee". This phenomenon is common in Baoshan. From 1952, Baoshan began to concentrate on coffee cultivation, although the scale was not large, but it laid the foundation for the future development of the coffee industry.
In the 20s of the 90th century, Baoshan, Pu'er, Lincang and other places in Yunnan began to grow Katim coffee on a large scale. This is a kind of commercial coffee beans, the advantage is strong disease resistance, high yield, the disadvantage is low price, coffee farmers mainly sell in the form of green beans to foreign companies to make instant coffee. Since China's coffee production is very small, accounting for only 1% of the world, the pricing power of green coffee beans is not in its own hands, but in the international coffee bean futures market. Therefore, some people say that 98% of China's coffee comes from Yunnan, while coffee farmers have a profit margin of only 1%.
Huang Jiaxiong, chief coffee expert and researcher of the Institute of Heat and Economics of the Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences: For example, in 2011, the price of a kilogram was as high as more than 25 yuan; However, after 2012, prices continued to decline; By 2018, it fell to the bottom, and the average price of a kilogram was 14 pieces and 7 Mao8, far below the cost price.
The situation of other coffee farmers is similar, and we came to Xinzhai Village, known as "China's first coffee village". It has the only contiguous coffee land of tens of thousands of acres in the country, and 95% of farmers grow coffee. During the coffee trough, the villagers also suffered hard.
How to break the curse of low prices? The answer given by the Baoshan people is specialty coffee. Specialty coffee refers to coffee beans that are grown, picked and processed to exacting standards. Specialty coffee is different from ordinary coffee, it is not subject to the restrictions of the international coffee bean futures market, the price is far beyond ordinary coffee, the market demand is strong, so Baoshan decided to take the road of specialty coffee and intensive processing.
Baoshan people have the confidence and strength to take the road of specialty coffee. Because it is at the foot of Gaoligong Mountain, between 24 and 25.5 degrees north latitude, the temperature difference between day and night is large, the climate is dry and hot, and the soil is fertile, which is the top of the world-famous golden coffee planting belt.
Huang Jiaxiong, chief coffee expert and researcher of the Institute of Heat and Economics of Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences: During the day, photosynthesis is relatively strong, nutrient production is more, at night low-temperature nutrient consumption is less, accumulation is more, nutrients are richer, aroma is better, and excellent quality is formed.
Another important reason is that China's coffee consumption is growing at an astonishing rate of 15% per year, far exceeding the global average growth rate of 2%, and the domestic market is expected to reach one trillion yuan in 2025, while China's specialty coffee gap is very large.
Huang Jiaxiong, chief coffee expert and researcher of the Institute of Heat and Economics of the Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences: Last year, we consumed 28,8 tons, but our output was only about 11,17 tons, and there was still a gap of <>,<> tons, and the prospects are very broad. Therefore, we propose to consolidate the primary industry, upgrade the secondary industry, develop the tertiary industry, and implement the virtuous cycle of development of the first, second and third industries.
In Baoshan, more and more coffee farmers choose to grow specialty coffee. Yang Jiangchun, the "coffee generation", is a representative of the new forces of coffee cultivation. In his coffee garden, more than ten kinds of specialty coffees such as Guixia, Bourbon, and Yunka No. 1 are grown, and various technological means can be seen everywhere.
However, it is not enough to have high-quality fresh fruits, and every subsequent processing link must be refined. Washed, screened, peeled, dried, selected and graded, in a professional processing plant, fresh fruits are turned into coffee rice after multiple processes, and then sent to deep processing enterprises.
The coffee company found that China's specialty coffee had a large gap and high profits, so it decided to make specialty coffee the core of its products. To this end, they also want to reduce the defect rate of coffee beans from 2% to 2‰ in storage. On the basis of specialty coffee beans, the company has launched hundreds of products such as roasted beans, freeze-dried powder, and hanging ear coffee, with annual sales exceeding 2 million yuan. Taking the road of high-quality not only allows enterprises to develop, but also drives tens of thousands of coffee farmers to grow specialty coffee, forming a virtuous circle and helping rural revitalization.
Today, the coffee quality rate in Baoshan has risen from less than 10% to more than 40%, driving more than 5,4000 coffee farmers and a per capita income of <>,<> yuan. Taking the road of quality has given the villagers a taste of real sweetness.
Yang Liben, secretary of the party group and director of the Agriculture and Rural Bureau of Baoshan City, Yunnan: We will run high-quality products into the whole industrial chain of primary, secondary and tertiary industries, improve the high-quality rate and high-quality processing rate, and make this article practical, stronger, and larger Baoshan small-grain coffee native products, so that coffee farmers can increase their income.
In Baoshan, coffee is not only a drink, but also a carrier of joy. In a coffee-themed industrial and cultural park in Baoshan, visitors can not only see the whole process of coffee production, but also get more fun. For example, camping in a tent. You can also learn a lot about coffee or experience a special coffee party. Finally, you can learn to brew coffee by hand with the teacher.
By creating a "coffee+" business model, coffee is no longer just a cheap bean, but a golden bean with high added value. At present, there are 17 coffee estates like this in Baoshan, of which 5 are provincial specialty coffee estates, with an annual income of nearly <> million yuan. The idea of the integrated development of primary, secondary and tertiary industries has not only driven the enterprise, but also brought a lot of inspiration to the coffee farmers in Xinzhai Village, the "first coffee village in China".
The mountains are covered with coffee trees, coffee beans are basking in the yard, coffee paintings are painted on the walls, and the aroma of coffee wafts in the village. This is the first impression of Xinzhai Village today. Now, coffee is not only the economic pillar of the village, but also the code for drainage. They also proposed the "10 million" plan.
Wang Jiawei, secretary of the general branch of the party in Xinzhai Village, Baoshan City, Yunnan: Ten is to make ten coffee estates; There are more than 1200 households, and <> households have been proposed to make small farmhouse coffee yards, all of which have been launched; Thousand is a base specially carved out for <>,<> acres, at an altitude of <>,<> meters, to grow the world's most expensive summer coffee; Ten thousand acres of coffee garden, gradually improve all of it into specialty coffee. Our overall goal is to make the whole village prosperous in the mode of industry-driven tourism.
Coffee farmer Duan Shaohua immediately signed up for the "100 Coffee Courtyards" program. At present, more than 7,40 people in Baoshan City are engaged in the coffee industry, and the comprehensive output value of the coffee industry has reached more than 10 billion yuan. Baoshan Specialty Coffee Industrial Park is also under construction, and it is expected to achieve an industrial output value of <> billion yuan after completion. It can be said that the development pattern of the whole industrial chain cluster "from beans to cups" in Baoshan is gradually taking shape, with broad prospects and promising futures.
Souvenirs of the past, golden beans today. Baoshan's specialty coffee road can be summarized as "one vertical and one horizontal". Vertically, through deep processing and finishing to increase the added value of products, extend the industrial chain and value chain of coffee as much as possible, so as to get rid of the curse of coffee bean prices being subject to people; Horizontally, by taking the road of "coffee +" to achieve industrial integration, the small coffee beans have been made into a large and vivid industry, and the revitalization of the coffee industry has promoted rural revitalization. (CCTV News Client)