Sino-Singapore Jingwei, January 1st (Yan Shuxin) In the winter afternoon, about three or five friends sat around the stove, spent three to five hundred yuan, boiled a pot of tea, and served it with roasted chestnuts, sweet potatoes, persimmons, and friends. Chatting while drinking tea... This winter, making tea around the stove has become a new social favorite of young people.

On Douyin, the topic of "making tea around the stove" has been played more than 3.4 billion times; searching for "making tea around the stove" on Xiaohongshu has more than 160,000 related notes.

  Why is it so hot to make tea around the stove?

Will it become the norm in the offline tea space?

Someone came here specifically for "production"

  "The way of making tea around the stove is very traditional. It used to be relatively small, but now it is really surprising that so many young people like it." Nanfeng (pseudonym), a post-90s generation, is currently engaged in tea drinking. Friends in the circle meet to make tea, but most of them focus on tea tasting. It is the first time for Nanfeng to experience this kind of "cooking tea around the stove" with piles of baked goods next to it and full of winter atmosphere.

  Nanfeng works in Chengdu. In November 2022, making tea around a stove became popular in the local area. Nanfeng and his friends also wanted to experience it, so they chose a teahouse that was highly recommended on Xiaohongshu.

  "It feels pretty good to me. Usually, everyone gathers to drink tea, coffee or dessert. This form is a relatively new way of gathering. And the price of making tea around the stove is not too expensive. We used to drink alone Tea costs about 100 yuan per person, and the price of cooking tea around the stove is about the same.” According to Nanfeng, they spend less than 100 yuan per person making tea around the stove this time. The set meal includes sweet potatoes, potatoes, chestnuts, peanuts, Oranges, persimmons and other foods, as well as some snacks, such as raisins, dried apricots, melon seeds and so on.

  In Nanfeng's view, compared to traditional tea tasting, brewing tea around a stove is more interesting and has a stronger sense of atmosphere. It is a good choice for gatherings with friends in autumn and winter.

"And making tea around the stove is very good for filming. One of my friends went there just to take pictures, and some people specially wore Hanfu to experience it." Nanfeng said.

  Mr. Chen from Liupanshui, Guizhou also thinks that in the cold winter, two or three friends can cook hot ginger tea, bake egg tarts, longan and other small snacks around the stove, which is very pleasant.

"Comfortable chatting, warm food and heart-warming. The price is also reasonable, and the average price for a cup of milk tea per person is enough." Not long ago, Mr. Chen and his friends had just experienced a round-the-stove tea making in a local teahouse. 69 yuan.

  However, not everyone’s experience of brewing tea around the stove is good.

Sino-Singapore Jingwei noticed that on social platforms such as Douyin and Xiaohongshu, many netizens complained that the reality of cooking tea around the stove is far from what I saw in the circle of friends. It’s gone, the rest is blurred”, “It’s useless except for taking pictures”, and some people think that making tea around the stove should be called “taking pictures around the stove”.

  Nanfeng also encountered some small problems when brewing tea around the stove.

"The stove in the teahouse is small and the heat source is not enough. Roasting oranges and persimmons is okay, but sweet potatoes are difficult to cook. I think it is more suitable to cook tea outside the stove. If it is a charcoal stove, it will be smoky indoors. We just thought The smell of smoke in the room was too strong, so we chose an outdoor location. It was not very cold at that time, and a sip of tea was still very warm." Nanfeng said.

Difficult to "surround" without an appointment on weekends

  The rise of cooking tea around the stove has also made some offline tea spaces smell business opportunities.

Sino-Singapore Jingwei noticed that in Beijing, in addition to teahouses, cafes, dessert shops, etc. have also launched tea-making sets around the stove, and the per capita consumption is mostly 100-200 yuan.

  Recently, Sino-Singapore Jingwei called a teahouse in Beijing as a consumer. The relevant staff said that there are indeed many customers who come to cook tea around the stove recently, especially on Saturdays and Sundays.

"We all prepare ingredients based on appointments. If there is no reservation, it is likely that the place is full on the day, or there are no ingredients. It is best to call us one day in advance to confirm." The staff member said.

  Sino-Singapore Jingwei saw on Meituan that the teahouse has launched a number of group purchase packages, including a limited set for two people to cook tea in the autumn and winter. The group purchase price is 352 yuan, including tea, handmade Chinese pastries, seasonal fruits, rice cakes, etc. Baked goods, calculated per capita, reached 176 yuan, and 75 orders were sold in the past six months.

  The stove-boiled tea sets in cafes and dessert shops are relatively cheaper.

Take a dessert shop with a high rating on Meituan in Beijing as an example. The store’s “Hao Shi Peanut Boiled Tea in a Stove for Two” group purchase price is 198 yuan, which is 99 yuan per person. In the past six months, 68 orders have been sold.

Its staff said that under normal circumstances, there will be more consumers who come to the store to make tea around the stove on weekends. Queue for two hours."

  The staff of a coffee shop in Beijing also said that if they go to the store to make tea around the stove on Saturday or Sunday afternoon, they basically have to queue up.

"The main reason is that during this period of time, making tea around the stove is relatively popular, and many people come to take pictures and check in. In addition, everyone has been 'yangkang' recently, and more people come out to play on weekends." The staff of the cafe said.

Sino-Singapore Jingwei noticed that, in addition to the per capita tea set menu of about 100 yuan, the cafe also launched Hanfu experience, small-scale shooting and other charging items.

  It is worth mentioning that most of the tea-boiling sets offered by offline stores have a time limit, usually 2-3 hours, and an additional fee will be charged if the time exceeds the specified time, ranging from 30-100 yuan per hour.

  The rising popularity of cooking tea around the stove has attracted more and more merchants to join in.

Data show that from December 2022 to the present, the number of physical merchants who have added the service of "making tea around the stove" on Dianping has increased by 326% from the same period in November; An increase of 11.7 times.

  "We now have three or four of these 'round the stove cooking tea' shops in our fourth- and fifth-tier cities, and the business is also good. Like the shop we went to two days ago, sometimes we have to make an appointment one day in advance on weekends, otherwise There is no place." Mr. Chen said.

  Nanfeng said that for teahouses, the cost of brewing tea around an oven is not high. You only need to prepare more fruits, dry goods, and ovens, so merchants are willing to try.

A gust of wind or an industry trend?

  In fact, making tea around the stove is nothing new.

As early as the Song Dynasty, there was a form of brewing tea. After the tea leaves were crushed, cooked, stirred, and filtered, the tea soup was poured into the teacup for drinking. After drinking tea, it was served with some tea and fruit snacks. Three or five friends sat around Recite poems and compose Fu.

  Up to now, there have been various forms of cooking tea around the stove.

In the eyes of some people, tea brewed around a large fire today is more like "fire-roasted tea" in Yunnan.

Firepit is an essential thing in the life of Yunnan people. People use it for heating and lighting, cooking food, and grilling food directly on charcoal fire.

  Zhu Danpeng, a food industry analyst and vice president of the Guangdong Provincial Food Safety Promotion Association, introduced to Zhongxin Jingwei that cooking tea around the stove is actually just a scene innovation, which makes this form of drinking tea more topical and social. It matches the core needs and demands of the new generation of consumer groups, and this is an important reason for the popularity of tea brewed around the stove.

  The person in charge of Meituan's emerging entertainment project also mentioned that the market has spotted the emotional value contained in the Chinese tea drinking method of cooking tea around the stove.

"One is that this product is curious enough. The charcoal stove, teapot and roasted objects can simply create the atmosphere and sense of ritual of traditional Chinese life and meet the needs of taking pictures. On the other hand, it provides a comfortable and warm atmosphere. The core of the experience is to experience a slow life, and it also places consumers' yearning for 'time is quiet and good'."

  In Nanfeng's view, the rise of cooking tea around the stove also reflects to some extent young consumers' recognition of traditional tea culture.

"In recent years, consumers have become more and more interested in health and health, and their love for tea has gradually increased. In fact, before the tea is brewed around the stove, there are already signs of fire in the teahouse. In the past, everyone would go to the cafe for gatherings, but now many consumers will Choose a new type of teahouse." Nanfeng said.

  Teahouses have a long history in China. Up to now, teahouses have both business and leisure attributes, and some enterprises have been sought after by capital.

According to the Tianyancha APP, from 2019 to 2022, the new teahouse brand tea'stone has received 4 rounds of financing, with a single round of financing amounting to tens of millions of yuan. Investors include Tongchuang Weiye, Metasequoia Investment, etc.; Rui Venture Capital’s Pre-A round of financing of tens of millions of yuan; in 2021, Yicha Yishe will receive millions of yuan in angel round financing. Investors include Xinxian Capital and Qinqin Food.

  "With the successful application of Chinese tea as a World Heritage Site, brewing tea will definitely be a major consumption trend in the future," Nanfeng said.

It is reported that on November 29, 2022, the "Chinese traditional tea-making techniques and related customs" declared by China successfully passed the review and were included in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

  "Cooking tea around the stove has changed young people's perception of drinking tea, and this brand-new tea drinking culture will not cause great consumption pressure for young people, and everyone is more willing to try it. Perhaps in the future, young people will Because of this experience, I like tea culture, so the meaning of cooking tea around the stove is achieved." Tian Yuanyuan, founder of Shanghai Sikou Yuetian Tea Culture Slow Life Museum, said.

  However, there are certain limitations in making tea around the stove in offline teahouses. For example, some stores only pay attention to creating a sense of atmosphere, the output of tea drinking and traditional tea culture is not enough, and the on-site experience of consumers is poor, etc.

On social media, some netizens also said after experiencing the experience of making tea around the stove, "I will not go there again."

  Bai Wenxi, vice chairman of the China Enterprise Capital Alliance and chief economist of IPG China, said that cooking tea around the stove can indeed be combined with tea culture to create new consumption scenarios and better promote tea culture.

However, this form still needs to be further improved.

  "Steaming around the stove as a trendy demand can indeed attract many merchants to enter the market in the short term, but if we want to achieve long-term operation and large-scale development, we must explore and cultivate it from the aspects of sceneization, socialization and even catering. It's not just a gust of punch-in consumption." Bai Wenxi said.

  Zhu Danpeng also mentioned that with the infusion of traditional culture, cooking tea around the stove will have more connotations, and it will go deeper and more "professional".

The mutual drainage of traditional culture and Internet media may make tea brewing around the stove a new trend of tea drinking.

(For more report clues, please contact the author of this article, Yan Shuxin: (China-Singapore Jingwei APP)

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