"Come, vidi, vici."
The Latin expression attributed to Julius Caesar goes to the hair and not only because he shares nationality with the Italian military and politician.
Massimiliano Delle Vedove
(Latisana, Udine, 1991) "arrived" almost eight months ago at the Dani García Group, "looked" and "conquered" ... in a big way the Michelin inspectors.
Or, what is the same and in a more homeland version, arrive and kiss the saint.
Smoked Room
, the exclusive space -14 diners- dedicated to the embers and the smoke that the Marbella chef opened last June in Madrid, with Massimiliano at the helm, has just suddenly won two stars from the Michelin firmament, by surprise. something
rarely seen in the universe of the Gallic guide
.
A few hours have passed since this
young Italian chef
stepped on the stage of the Palau de Les Arts Reina Sofía (Valencia) and put on the mandatory Michelin chef jacket, perhaps that is why he has not yet managed to remove his face and voice of astonishment (in addition tired).
"
I did not expect it,
I knew that things did not look bad, because we are doing well, but ... I still have to assimilate it, and
celebrate it,
but now I am looking forward to changing my clothes and going to work. After the service, we will celebrate with the whole team. "
First things first, it goes without saying within minutes of starting meal service.
Dani García and Massimiliano (right) after achieving the two 'macarons'.
It is not that Massi -as they call him- the vocation was born in childhood, that adolescence is already awakening.
"My mother was
an
English
teacher
at a cooking school and I spent a lot of time there, I watched the cooks work."
And there the discovery began.
"
I did not have a great vocation
and I decided to try, because at this age no one really knows what he wants," he recalls.
After finishing school, he had his first experience in a small hotel restaurant, some months that helped him to think that
in the kitchen he could find his future
.
"The director told me that if I wanted to dedicate myself to haute cuisine, he would take me to a
Michelin restaurant to learn
."
Said and done. Massi got doubts and own fears of old - "it was the first time I left home" - suitcase and headed for the
Stars
at the
Il Colombaio
(Casole d'Elsa, Tuscany) for their first practice
haute cuisine
. "The head chef told me
either you fall in love with the kitchen or you leave it forever
." And, as far as we know, the former happened. He was 19 years old and 11 years later the idyll continues.
Of empirical training, Massimiliano's school "has been the countries to which I have traveled, the different culinary places I have known and
all the restaurants
I have passed through", most of them with finery of the Red Guide (predestination?).
For example, the Londoner
Galvin at Windows
(one star);
Il Palagio
, at the Four Seasons in Florence (also with a
macaron
);
Hoja Santa
(restaurant with the Albert Adrià star in Barcelona, closed today) ... And
Mont Bar
(in Barcelona), "my second home", add.
The chef, in the center, with the Smoked Room team.
He was there for four years and "it was a great experience. I have a lot of affection for Iván Campos, the owner, who taught me a lot; for Domenico, the executive chef ...
We never had a star, but it is an establishment with a high level
. I fell in love
of this family and their way of working, that's why I take a long time, "he remembers today.
And how did Massi get to Madrid?
Well, love has a lot to do with it:
cooking and a woman from Madrid
.
"They offered me the Smoked Room adventure, and my girlfriend is from there. Both things were the same and the
support of the family
is very important, especially when working at this level."
-Six months running, two stars.
What a balance.
-I think what we have done is something different and totally new for everyone, for the team and for Dani.
We follow the general line that he tells us every day.
-Award to the team, yes, but the Guide launches some compliments: mastery of cooking techniques on charcoal and preparations with subtle touches of smoke that
impressed the inspectors
...
-I am very grateful, but getting two stars in six months, something unthinkable, is only possible
with a great team
.
I understand that they talk about technique and stuff, but the human side is what has made the difference.
The bar of the restaurant.
Smoked Room "is exclusivity, a unique experience. A small restaurant for 14 people that revolves around a concept that Dani and Javier Gutiérrez have created, but in which we have a
lot of freedom to play with the best product in all of Spain
. Thus, With smoke as the common thread, we create a tasting menu in which it is always present, in the main product or in a background or in a mayonnaise. We like to play with it ", says Massi, always escorted by
Jorge Martín, the culinary director
.
He and his team are aware that this "is the beginning of everything. We have just started. Now we have to show everything and go for the third.
The third next year!
Smoked Room tables.
'THE SURPRISE' BY DANI GARCÍA
And what does Dani García think of what happened?
Well, although he suspected something, he did not imagine that he
would return to the Michelin Olympus
through the front door.
"I have been
accompanying
the Guide for
more than 20 years
, since they gave me the first star 21 years ago.
It is a habitat that I know well
, in which I have lived all my professional life and, even so, and having passed everything that has happened [his resignation in 2018 to the three stars shortly after the Michelin Guide awarded them],
we did not expect the two stars
. I am flattered, grateful and
overwhelmed in a positive sense
, says a Dani as happy as he is exhausted, since he reached Valencia, to the gala, from New York
where he has just inaugurated two new concepts
.
"People imagine that the relationship with Michelin is bad, and it is true that they probably did not like my decision,
but the relationship is much better than people think
." And he continues: "Yesterday there were people surprised that we were there, but in the end they are professionals who
have been more than two and three times to Smoked Room
, which surprised me, and who have fallen in love with the concept and
have rewarded it without looking back
".
When he said goodbye to the three jewels, Dani commented that if he ever returned to haute cuisine it would be with a small concept, inspired by restaurants in Japan and
"seeking maximum perfection, closeness to the customer, focused on the product and with another person at the helm
. "
That was in 2018, three years after the future has been fulfilled: Smoked Room, Massimiliano Delle Vedove and two Michelin stars.
Smoked Room:
Paseo de la Castellana, 57 (Hotel Hyatt Regency Hesperia).
Price of the
omakase
menu
: 135 euros;
starting in January, 180 euros.
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