The great carbonara, made with homemade spaghetti and served inside the Borgo pecorino cheese.
PHOTOS: SOPHIE CHANIMBAUD
The Big Mamma group lands in Madrid with a spectacular trattoria
Bet on "delicious and generous" Italian cuisine at the best price
They have been installed in the almost 1,000 square meters of the old Loft 39
Two young French entrepreneurs in love with Italian gastronomy have landed in Madrid to cheer for Covid this past fall.
Bel Mondo, the first adventure of the Big Mamma group in Spain
, is a trattoria of almost 1,000 square meters that has been installed in the old Loft 39 on Velázquez Street.
Today it opens its doors -only at dinner time- with the intention of offering "a delicious and generous meal at the best price."
The new space is undoubtedly one of the openings of the season.
-more than 10,000 vinyls welcome the diner-, its rooms take you to a northern Italian villa, with its marble tables, Murano glass lamps, fireplace, shelves full of old books, or a cozy apartment from the 80s. "All are original objects bought in antique shops," explains Tigrane Seydoux hours before the official debut.
He and Victor Lugger are the founders of the Big Mamma group, which already has
13 restaurants -
8 in Paris, 1 in Lyon, 1 in Lille and two in London - and a staff of 1,200 people.
Tigrane Seydoux, together with chef Ciro Cristiano.
Each place is "unique", they all have different decorations -the company has its own team of interior designers, Studio Kiki-, different menus and in each city where they open they look for local producers to expand their wide range of products -about 150- that arrive directly from Italian suppliers without any intermediary.
"Italian cuisine is a product cuisine
. We start from this base," says Seydoux.
The second living room is flanked by the open kitchen and the bakery - here
the sweet part is of another dimension
Only in the kitchen do they have a team of 50 people;
in total there are 102, the majority Italians.
"We make everything here, from pasta to ice cream. For the first one, we use semolina brought directly from Mulino Artigianale Dibenedetto, a small mill in Altamura (Puglia)".
At the back of the kitchen, there is the charcoal oven in which they make their meats -all Galician- and vegetables.
Ciro Cristiano, the Neapolitan chef who has settled in Madrid as Seydoux to supervise the new opening, which has one of the largest stores in the chain, moves around giving instructions.
The terrace looks like a courtyard on the Amalfi coast.
But in times of pandemic,
the queen of the party is the terrace
, 235 square meters that transfer between plants and flowers - all natural - and lights to the Amalfi coast.
It's time to enjoy a Bellini cocktail with rosemary steam ball before you start browsing the menu.
"We want the proposals to change, to be a dynamic letter," explains Seydoux.
essentials on a first visit
are the vitello tonnato, its round of veal with typical Piedmont sauce, and its 'no more leek', leek roasted in Josper -the Ferrari of charcoal ovens- with stracciatella and capers.
Of the pizzas, made in the Neapolitan style, the margarita and the 'napoletana' do not disappoint.
The risotto a la milanese with marrow, the gran carbonara, served in a Borgo pecorino cheese, and the girella a la Norma (the cannelloni stuffed with buffalo ricotta, aubergines and confit tomatoes) deserve special mention.
The bread, by the way, comes from the oven of the Obrador San Francisco in the capital.
However, it is advisable to leave
room for desserts
The cheese cake is sublime;
the creamy and exquisite tiramisu is also a house brand, along with the lemon tart.
After the success achieved in Paris and London, they arrive in Madrid -in principle there would be before the summer- with the double challenge of launching themselves in times of pandemic.
Reservations are made 50% online with a maximum of 15 days in advance and the other 50% is left to be given in order of arrival.
The flowers that decorate the outside of the premises will make you notice this new piece of Italy in the heart of the Salamanca district.
Velázquez, 39. Open from Monday to Sunday with lunch and dinner service.
Average price: 30 euros.
All the objects in the Bel Mondo salons are bought in antique shops.
According to the criteria of
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