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Caffé Latte: it's the milk that counts - and the temperature
Photo: Boy_Anupong / Getty Images
Anyone who likes to drink cappuccino, café au lait, latte macchiato or chai will appreciate creamy, firm milk foam.
In addition to the gold standard - the foaming nozzles of fully automatic coffee machines, also known as steam lances - there are various manual and battery-operated aids.
But electric milk frothers, which heat milk or its vegan alternatives while whipping, lead to seventh foam heaven.
We whisked three typical representatives of this genre: a one-piece foam beater and two with removable jugs - both with a heating plate and induction.
Design Milk and Chocolate Advanced
With a height of 26 centimeters, this stainless steel foamer is by far the largest in the test.
The XL format is probably due to induction technology.
With their help, the milk is quickly brought to the ideal temperature while whisking and without burning at the bottom of the separate mixing jug.
This is between 55 and 65 °C, with low-fat milk foaming best at low temperatures, while whole milk with 3.5 percent fat likes it a little warmer.
It is worth cooling the milk until it froths.
This extends the process and improves the result.
Caution: from 70 °C, protein and milk sugar change.
This not only damages the frothiness, but also the taste.
Because it is difficult to regulate, heat is the main problem with manual frothing jugs, in which the milk is heated on the stove without a temperature display.
Like most two-part systems, the Gastroback also masters the four basic disciplines in addition to temperature control - we measured 66 °C in milk foam mode.
It can produce hot, fine-pored milk foam, milk heated to 67 °C without bubbles, cold milk foam for frappé or flavored dessert foams, as well as hot chocolate with a mountain of sweet foam.
The latter can also be made from coarsely chopped chocolate bars.
To do this, place a stainless steel protective basket (supplied) over the whisk.
The result tastes heavenly.
However, the promised 77 °C was not reached; our thermometer showed a maximum of 67 °C.
The Gastroback is the fastest hothead in the test field.
No wonder, as it heats the milk using induction.
A label in the jug clearly shows the maximum amount of milk for frothing: 300 ml. That's enough for two to three cappuccinos.
It brings it from refrigerator temperature to 66 °C in two minutes and 15 seconds.
He heats twice the amount into a jug of hot milk in just under three minutes.
It is also of the fast variety when it comes to cold foaming, whipping 300 ml into frappé foam in 2:05 minutes.
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There is a lot of sweet foam floating on the cocoa from the Gastroback frother
Photo: Peter Wagner
The stop button lights up permanently as a standby indicator, which consumes little power but definitely completely unnecessary.
The operating instructions say succinctly: “Pull the power plug out of the socket when you no longer need the device.”
During our tests, the Gastroback hung up several times after hours of standby mode and could only be used again after we unplugged it from the socket.
A power button would have made energy management more sustainable and less annoying - and would probably not have cost the manufacturer more than 50 cents in material costs.
What is that?
A comparatively very large, but also very efficient milk frother for all imaginable foam dreams.
Who needs that?
If you have the space and might want to try making a hearty, flavored foam in your hobby kitchen.
What does this cost?
RRP 139.99;
Street price approx. 99 euros
Caso Crema & Choco Inox
The Caso foam beater is a typical representative of the mid-price segment with its stainless steel jug, magnetic plastic whisk and simple heating plate heating.
The four basic functions (see Gastroback) can be accessed and started using the Select button.
The removable jug froths a maximum of 250 ml of milk, which corresponds to the level of the easy-to-read MAX marking.
To be on the safe side, it is better to fill in a little less.
During our tests, at exactly 250 ml, milk repeatedly escaped from the removable plastic lid and burned on the hot heating plate.
Such stains can only be removed with steel wool.
Otherwise, cleaning the jug and whisk, which is placed on a spike in the base, is child's play: running water and a few drops of washing-up liquid are sufficient.
Due to its design, the Caso's heating plate works significantly slower than an induction system.
For 250 ml of milk we stopped for 4:30 minutes until the maximum temperature of 67 °C.
The device prepared 350 ml of cold frappé within two minutes.
We tested all three foamers not only with cow's milk, but also with various vegan milk substitute products.
Neither the Caso nor the other two produced even a millimeter of foam from almond milk.
This can only be done on an almond basis with the “Barista” variants, which, due to the low protein content of the almonds, contain far more additives than, for example, soy or oat milk: maltodextrin, gellan, lecithin, dipotassium phosphate and other acidity regulators.
The best animal-free foam was produced by Gastroback and, with a few compromises, Caso and Senseo with barista oat milk, to which some soy, sunflower oil and salt are added and which should be processed cold in the refrigerator.
If you drink your coffee unsweetened, you might be bothered by the tasteful high sugar content of the oats.
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Nice and airy: oat milk foamed with the Caso Crema & Choco Inox
Photo: Peter Wagner
This isn't annoying when preparing drinking chocolate; in case of doubt, the sweetness of the type of chocolate used dominates.
The second whisk attachment required for this can be conveniently stored in a magnetic recess in the bottom of the heating base - a clever solution for such small attachments that would otherwise quickly get lost in the general chaos of the kitchen.
The Caso doesn't handle coarsely chopped chocolate bars as well as the Gastroback.
It is advisable to grate the chocolate finely on a sharp grater beforehand.
Within 4:30 minutes, the device then prepares a homogeneous, very fine and slightly hotter cocoa at 77 °C, but largely free of foam, from refrigerator-cold milk and chocolate shavings.
Unfortunately, the high temperature leads to stubborn brown dirt residues on the bottom of the jugs, which a normal dishwashing brush is not enough to remove.
In the end, apart from the lack of an on/off switch and the rather long foaming and heating times, almost nothing bothers you with the Caso, as long as you use lean UHT milk.
The foam doesn't last as long as with the Gastroback and only makes up a third of the foaming result with Barista oat milk - the rest is hot milk (see photo).
What is that?
A useful, fairly slow milk frother with a heating plate that is mid-range in price.
Who needs that?
Too slow and too small for intensive foamers, but not a bad choice for occasional use.
What does this cost?
69.99 euros
Philips Senseo Milk Twister
Even if barista purists frown at this statement: for a long time we considered the Senseo frother, in which the pot and heater are inseparably connected, to be completely sufficient for comfortable morning coffee use at home.
Devices with a separate jug are of course much easier to clean.
However, the Senseo demands a level of attention that you don't always have right after getting up.
The maximum amount of milk, which is marked with a calibration mark inside the cordless, non-stick coated heating and frothing cup, should definitely be exceeded rather than exceeded.
One too many swishes and the increase in volume as the foam forms leads to a nasty mess in the kitchen.
He punishes greed mercilessly by overcooking.
Otherwise, like almost all devices of this type, it froths best ice-cold long-life milk with the lowest possible fat content and at least 3.3 percent protein content.
After all, it is the protein molecules that combine with the air during foaming to form briefly stable bubbles and form the perfect milk foam.
Alternatively, this also works with fresh milk, but it should not be older than two days.
The device also works easily with vegan alternatives made from oats, soy or (with considerable limitations) almond.
Here too, you should prefer the varieties marked “Barista”.
One filling of the Philips Senseo is easily enough for two nice portions of cappuccino or café au lait, but also for a substantial single latte or a large chai.
Due to its design, the disadvantages of the Senseo become apparent when comparing it with systems with a separate milk jug: the calibration mark for the maximum filling quantity is hardly visible in diffuse light, which can lead to overfilling with the problems described.
The magnetically operated whisk attachment is firmly connected to the lid; when it is removed, foam residue always drips down.
So you should first open it over the sink.
When pouring the foam, the smooth edge of the cup is not ideal; this works better with the spout from the separate jugs.
This also applies to quickly preparing a second portion if, for example, four cappuccinos are needed.
To do this, you first have to cool down the Senseo with cold water; a hot mug blocks the automatic start system.
You can come to terms with all of this.
But not with the problems that arose with our Senseo after a long period of use: At some point the whisk attachment rattled loudly, which could only be stopped by placing a can on the lid.
What's worse is the short lifespan of the non-stick coating.
Even if only soft plastic cutlery is used for emptying and the device is only cleaned with a little detergent, the coating can gradually crumble away.
And you don't want to drink something like that with your morning foam.
What is that?
A handy and practical, but not necessarily long-lasting milk frother.
Who needs that?
Anyone looking for a stylish, well-functioning and not too large device for occasional frothing.
What does this cost?
RRP 79.99;
Street price approx. 60 euros.