China News Service, Jakarta, February 12th: Title: Jakarta Panchilan: A cup of fragrant tea tells the story of changes, and the taste of hometown is the best way to soothe homesickness.
Author Li Zhiquan Chen Shimeng
Passing through the narrow streets of northern Jakarta, a "blocked city", a two-story arcade-style building facing the street on three sides stands in front of you. The four-character "Jiquan Teahouse" sign hangs on this century-old building.
When the teahouse arrived, Panchilan Chinatown also arrived. Jiquan Teahouse is located at the corner of Caopu Road in Jakarta's old town, which is also the entrance to Chinatown. There are wooden doors with wooden edge panes, small lanterns hanging side by side at the door, red lanterns hanging inside the house, retro chandeliers, wooden screens, Kung Fu tea tables and tea sets, and Peking Opera masks on the walls. Being in it, a sense of age arises spontaneously.
Several British tourists enjoying tea came out of the store and disappeared into the bustling street while chatting and laughing. In addition to attracting Chinese groups, Panchilan Chinatown is also a check-in place for many European and American tourists.
On February 5, the interior of Jiquan Teahouse in Chinatown, Panchilan, Jakarta. Photo by China News Service reporter Li Zhiquan
Go up the stairs and look around the entire teahouse. Indonesian classical oil paintings and Nanyang-style floors complement the rich Chinese style. The air is filled with the scent of tea.
The tea house was formerly a famous Chinese pharmacy in Caopu area. The pharmacy opened in 1928, but closed after about 30 years of operation and was abandoned for many years. Like this pharmacy, Panchilan Chinatown has gone through many vicissitudes of life. Huang Yinhua, executive chairman of the Indonesian Chinese Association, said that as early as 400 years ago, this was the place where the ancestors of Indonesian Chinese started their businesses. Later, with the busy business activities, it gradually developed into Chinatown.
Many years ago, the Indonesian government promoted the "Old City Revitalization Plan", and the buildings were renovated. The pharmacy was transformed into a teahouse, and the medicine collection area became a cashier area. The traditional Chinese medicine buckets from a hundred years ago can still be seen in the teahouse.
The founder of Jiquan Teahouse is Chinese Lin Yirong. This "post-90s" girl was born in Jakarta, moved to Singapore when she was young, and later went to the United States to study. In her words, because she couldn't let go of her ties to the Indonesian Chinese community, she finally returned here to "find her roots."
Influenced by her family environment, Lin Yirong has loved tea since she was a child. “Hoping more people to understand tea and understand Chinese culture” is her tea ceremony and original intention.
In order to restore the aroma of tea in her memory, Lin Yirong made a special trip to Yunnan, Fujian, Zhejiang and other tea producing areas to study with teachers. She not only brought Pu'er, Longjing, Dahongpao, Tieguanyin here, but also brought here Chinese brewing methods.
Coinciding with the Lunar New Year, Panchilan Chinatown has ushered in the busiest and liveliest season of the year, and more and more people come to have a rest and have a cup of tea. But the tea house still continues to serve tea to passers-by for free - a tradition that dates back to the Dutch rule and is said to have originated in Quanzhou, a famous hometown of overseas Chinese in China.
On February 5, the archway of Chinatown in Panjilan, Jakarta. Photo by China News Service reporter Li Zhiquan
Although not all Chinatowns are "Chinese", many Chinese traditions are still passed down. At the same time, in order to integrate into the local area, many Chinese delicacies have also been changed to "halal". Huang Yinhua said that Chinatown has now become a symbol of multiculturalism.
There is a word in Indonesia called "Imlek", which originates from the Hokkien word "lunar calendar" and refers to the Lunar New Year - the Spring Festival. Nowadays, not only Chinese people celebrate the Spring Festival, but local people also put up Spring Festival couplets and hang lanterns.
On February 5, people shopped in Panchilan Chinatown, Jakarta. Photo by China News Service reporter Li Zhiquan
In the bustling Panchilan Chinatown, a simple steamed bun stall stands out. The stall owner, Ajun, is Chinese, but he is not good at Chinese. He couldn't tell where the flower-shaped steamed buns came from. He only knows that this kind of food is "the Chinese favorite during the Chinese New Year and can sell 100 pieces every day."
Another New Year’s delicacy loved by Chinese Indonesians is Lo Yee Sang. Lao Yu Sang is made of raw fish strips with various shredded vegetables, shredded fruits, peanuts and cashew nuts. When eating, everyone used chopsticks to pick up the food and said loudly: "Pick it up! Pick it up! Scoop it up!"
Huang Yinhua said that Chinese food culture is not only a continuation of delicious food, but also a nostalgia that cannot be erased from the memories of generations of Chinese. Many food terms such as "Tahu" (tofu), "Lumpia" (pancake), and "Siomay" (siomai) in Indonesian originate from China.
This Spring Festival, many Chinese people once again came to Panchilan Chinatown, where their ancestors lived, to brew a pot of tea, taste the taste of their hometown, and soothe the nostalgia on their tongues. (over)