Leaning over her work, she dexterously intertwines plant fibers to give life to these large bags that support both the weight of a child and heavy provisions.

Symbol of the pride of this indigenous people of the Pacific archipelago, "bilum", which means "uterus" in the local language Tok Pisin, is very popular in Europe, as in North America or Australia.

Fashion magazines like Grazia, Harper's Bazaar and Vogue Australia have published articles about these patterned bags and the different techniques used to make them. They are dyed with colors specific to each workshop.

"Bilums", traditional handmade bags, at a market in Port Moresby, on May 20, 2023 in Papua New Guinea © ADEK BERRY / AFP

Faced with this growing craze, some fear that this bag, one of the pillars of Papua New Guinea's culture, will become a mere fashion phenomenon and a source of profit for Western exporters.

- 'It makes us proud' -

On the contrary, for the weavers, this success abroad is a source of pride and allows them to support their families.

Ms. Nabi works for the workshop "Bilum & Bilas" for a monthly salary of 1,000 kinas (263 euros), 50% more than the minimum wage.

"Bilums", traditional handmade bags, on May 19, 2023 in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea © ADEK BERRY / AFP

The manufacture of a "bilum" can take several weeks. The septuagenarian and three other weavers each make up to five a month.

"It makes us proud. There's something from Papua New Guinea in it," said Maureen Charlie, 34.

"It's part of our identity and culture. We always do it and my children will do it again."

"In the villages, women have no source of income. Sometimes they don't have time to go to markets, or don't have access to a road, so they weave and store their +bilums+," says Charlie.

Maureen Charlie, head of the "Bilum & Bilas" workshop, on May 19, 2023 in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea © ADEK BERRY / AFP

Port Moresby's most disadvantaged women bring the fruits of their work to slum stalls, at the risk of being stripped of their stock.

"It's a good source of income for my family. I make +bilums+ and I earn enough to make a daily life," says Cathy Wariapa, 35, who sells her bags every weekend in a safer place: on the grounds of a hotel.

"Sometimes we don't sell. When there are no buyers, we bring them back."

A man wears a "bilum", a handmade bag, around his neck on May 20, 2023 in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea © ADEK BERRY / AFP

Bags are usually made and worn by women, but more and more men in Papua New Guinea are wearing them around their necks.

"If a woman doesn't wear +bilum+, they say she's not a woman," says Charlie. When she wears one, she says she "feels like a woman and comes from Papua New Guinea."

The precious bags are often given to friends and family or used during welcome rituals, sometimes placed on the floor in front of guests.

A woman carries her groceries in a homemade bag "bilum", May 20, 2023 in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea © ADEK BERRY / AFP

But the technique of weaving the bags – which they inherited from their mothers and grandmothers – is not just about money for them.

"We can make +bilum+ anytime, forever," says Betty Nabi. "We will not stop."

© 2023 AFP