Farandoles of flocked jerseys of the number 77, that of the Georgian winger nicknamed "Kvaradona", float above pedestrians strolling through the old town, hanging from clotheslines.

On the stalls and in the windows, in the middle of the Maradona statuettes, one does not escape the black masks, reminiscent of the protective mask worn since last season by the Nigerian centre-forward Osimhen, top scorer of the championship.

Napoli's third Italian league title is not yet officially in its pocket. But it's just like walking through the teeming streets of the Parthenopean city in early spring.

Before hosting the defending champions, AC Milan (4th), Sunday at the Diego Maradona Stadium, Napoli is 19 points ahead of its closest pursuer, Lazio Roma, one of only two teams to have beaten it in Italy this season with Inter Milan (3rd at 21 pts).

Flags, banners and shirts with the names of Napoli players decorate the Spanish Quarters, in Naples, March 24, 2023. © Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

Even if Juventus (currently 7th) recovered on appeal its fifteen penalty points for accounting fraud, Napoli would still have fifteen points margin over the Bianconeri. A hell of a guarantee eleven days from the end. Even if the unavailability of Victor Osimhen, forfeit Sunday due to an adductor injury, was to be prolonged.

- And three -

In other words, the scudetto, this green-white-red crest worn by the Italian champions, is already practically sewn on the Napoli jersey. Even the legendary local superstition does not resist it: everywhere, we now meet this famous number "3", that of the third scudetto expected for 33 years and the first two of the Maradona era in 1987 and 1990.

"Ricomincio da tre" ("I start from three"), proclaims this banner extended via dei Tribunali, taking the name of the film by Neapolitan director and actor Massimo Troisi ("The Postman"). The figure also appears on the flags sold around the stadium bearing the name of the Argentine legend and on the giant vignettes, Panini album style, hung on the windows near the station.

A banner reading "Ricomincio da tre" ("I start from three"), in reference to the third scudetto that Naples can win and the film of the same name by Massimo Troisi, in Via Dei Tribunali, on March 24, 2023 in Naples © Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

It would be the first time in more than twenty years (and the title of AS Roma in 2001) that the scudetto escapes the big three of the north: Juventus, Inter and AC Milan.

"A league title in Napoli is worth ten of Juventus," Maradona claimed in 1987 after giving the city the first title.

Napoli has since devoted a real cult to the Argentine star. The famous "mural" of the Spanish Quarters, in the center of the city, is one of the must-sees for tourists passing through. Since the disappearance of Maradona, in November 2020, the land hosting this fresco of 1990 is always full and has converted to commerce with the appearance of a stand of souvenirs and jerseys.

Osimhen cake

If we continue to meet him on every street corner, "D10S" is no longer alone, now accompanied by Osimhen, Kvaratskhelia and their teammates, especially through cardboard silhouettes.

Cardboard silhouettes of Napoli coach Luciano Spalletti, Napoli's Georgian striker Khvicha Kvaratskhelia (right), Napoli's Nigerian striker Victor Osimhen (center) and other Napoli players settled in the Spanish Quarters on March 24, 2023. © Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP

In the Forcella district, some young people take selfies in front of a recent mural depicting the two star strikers of Napoli 2022/23. But what amuses them the most is the toilet installed at the foot of the mural, painted in black and white, with this inscription repeating a common insult among the local tifosi: "Juve Merda".

A throw from a football, via Duomo, the Tico bar offers at the price of 3 euros an "Osimhen coffee", without too much encumberment of image rights or trademark registration.

What's special about it? The boss refers to a poster affixed in the dining room: a coffee served in "a high glass with sugar and cocoa on the edges and an artisanal chocolate in the bottom".

Another variant, in the north of the city: the pastry shop Fresco Forno sells an "Osimhen cake", a chocolate pie with a mask and a crumble on top reminiscent of the Nigerian's blonde-dyed hair. Which himself came to look for one, according to a photo circulated by the media.

Everything is ready for the great feast of the scudetto. All that remains is to set the date.

© 2023 AFP