On a catwalk lit by chandeliers, models, slender and leggy, walk behind sunglasses.

In the front row, fashion popess Anna Wintour puts on hers when the show begins.

Black, navy blue with tennis stripes: the colors are classic but the audacity of the skirt suit, this flagship look of the fall-winter 2023 collection, comes from the cut of the jacket and the contrast with fluid or transparent pieces that go with.

Saint Laurent fashion show in Paris, February 28, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The skirt can also be worn with blouses with a bow that extends over the back like a train and flesh-colored transparent tops.

Tartan patterns invite themselves on skirts or coats with XXL shoulders, like jackets.

Another element traditionally associated with the men's wardrobe: a plaid wrapping the upper body, nicely draped and fixed with massive golden jewels.

Saint Laurent fashion show in Paris, February 28, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

"The Saint Laurent woman exposes her body if she wants to and hides it if she wants to," says Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello in the parade note.

In evening looks, the skirt can be replaced with skinny cashmere pants: the modernity of the outfit is unthinkable without comfort.

Backless little black dresses have clean lines and are, like skirts, above the knee.

The show's decor is inspired by the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, where Saint Laurent presented its haute couture collections between 1975 and 2001.

Saint Laurent fashion show in Paris, February 28, 2023 © JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP

The chandeliers, symbolizing the opulence of the decor of the time, are here placed in a black box which hosts the show in front of the Eiffel Tower, where the house traditionally parades.

"An incredible, strong and powerfully feminine collection - no one is joking with this Saint Laurent woman!" Simon Longland, fashion buying director at Harrods, told AFP.

"The collection seemed pulled from the 80s archives of Yves himself but in Anthony's hands he made it his own and decidedly modern," he continued, anticipating that it "will find a resonance with Harrods customers."

© 2023 AFP