"The movement has been underway for several years, but the time has come for him to have free rein, to let it flourish and to let it be known that he is the only master on board in the kitchen", explained to the AFP the boss of the three-star establishment since 1968.
"He is now the chef (...) I slip behind", said the one who passes the torch to the fourth generation Troisgros even if he continues to lead with his wife Marie-Pierre the family group counting several establishments and nearly a hundred employees.
César, trained at the Bocuse Institute and then with great restaurants, in France and the United States, therefore takes over the management of the brigade and develops the menu of the flagship, the restaurant established since 2017 in Ouches, a village located a ten kilometers from Roanne which was the founding place of the prestigious dynasty.
Michel Troisgros (G) with his sons Léo (C) and César (D) in his restaurant in Ouches (Loire) on February 18, 2017 © PHILIPPE DESMAZES / AFP/Archives
It was in fact opposite the Roanne station that his great-grandparents, Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros, created their first business in 1930.
His famous grandfather Pierre, made his scales there with his older brother Jean, before taking over the family restaurant with him in 1953.
The restaurant becomes "Les Frères Troisgros", with Pierre in the kitchen and Jean as master saucier.
The address obtained its first star in 1955, its second in 1965 and the third in 1968, thanks to its innovative, creative but simple cuisine, at the forefront of Nouvelle Cuisine, theorized by the Gault & Millau guide.
On the sudden death of his uncle Jean in 1983, Michel joined his father in the kitchen, before taking over the Troisgros house in the early 90s and then transferring it to a new place in the countryside, in Ouches.
The one who will celebrate his 65th birthday on April 2, intends to “stay active” at the head of his establishments and his company Troisgros Consultants, which operates in events.
He is currently building in the village of Ouches "a building for agricultural and bakery purposes", his daughter Marion will launch an equestrian lodging site there next month.
His youngest, Léo, will soon start with his companion Lisa, his last season at the head of the Auberge-gîte la Colline du Colombier, in Iguerande", in Saône-et-Loire, to start his own business.
© 2023 AFP