A black tail coat, matching narrow pants with classic stiletto heel pumps.

This is the first look that sums up this collection made by Ackermann, the fourth guest stylist since Jean Paul Gaultier himself abandoned the profession in 2020.

Models with a sultry look follow each other slowly, stopping to better show the garment from all angles.

In the ranks of the "wow" escape while the parade takes place almost in silence.

Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show By Haider Ackermann in Paris, January 25, 2023 © Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP

"The aura around Gaultier is the theater and sometimes we forget the essence of his work, the work which is so beautiful. I wanted to find what touched me" during Jean Paul Gaultier's parades, said Haider Ackermann told reporters.

Behind the scenes follow Catherine Deneuvre, Carla Bruni, Tilda Swinton, Inès de la Fressange or Rossy de Palma to congratulate him.

"What a beauty!"

exclaims the Spanish actress and fashion icon.

"We needed it Rossy," replies Lou Doillon, who is waiting nearby.

Jean Paul Gautier fashion show By Haider Ackermann in Paris, January 25, 2023 © Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP

The expectation was enormous to discover what would result from the fusion of universes as different as that of a flamboyant Jean Paul Gaultier with an overflowing imagination and the sensual refinement of Haider Ackermann, who signed the red bare-back jumpsuit worn at Venice by his friend, actor Timothée Chalamet.

Before this collaboration, "I never would have thought that we could mix our worlds to such an extent. But looking in the archives I realized that there were a lot more things in common than I had. thought," he said.

He did not revisit the marinière, iconic piece of Jean Paul Gaultier because his work "is much more than that", he told AFP.

"When you see all these well-cut suits in the archives, that's what touches me."

Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show by Haider Ackermann in Paris, January 25, 2023 © Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP

There are plenty of clean-lined suits, with trousers or long slit skirts.

The conical bust bustier immortalized by Madonna is elegantly flattened and worn with khaki pants.

"I approached the legacy of Jean Paul Gaultier with love and pleasure," said Haider Ackermann.

"My ambition was to make Mr. Gaultier happy. If he is proud and happy tonight, I have won my bet."

Haider Ackermann and Jean Paul Gaultier at the haute couture show in Paris, January 25, 2022 © Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP

"I loved, loved, loved," said Jean Paul Gaultier.

© 2023 AFP