“There is a new sense of ease in the collection, in a combination of the formal and the informal (...) a sense of metamorphosis and change through the water motif,” said the AFP Briton Kim Jones, artistic director of the Dior men's collections.

An ultra-chic white coat with ribbons sticking out, following the look like mini-trains, worn over Bermuda shorts with imposing white boots and knee-high socks set the tone for this fall-winter collection presented as part of of the men's ready-to-wear week in Paris.

Close-ups of the faces of actors Robert Pattinson and Gwendoline Christie reciting excerpts from "The Waste Land" by American poet TS Eliot were projected onto the walls of the pavilion, along with those of models and details of outfits before we don't actually see them.

Dior men's show in Paris, January 20, 2023 © Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP

- Male Female-

TS Eliot's literary motifs, the Thames and the Seine inspired Kim Jones for her flowing silhouettes.

Masculine and feminine elements mix for more sensuality.

In the light gray suits, the tradition and materials of English "tailoring" meet those of French haute couture.

The fall and the movement of the pants are fascinating, but there is also a wide choice of bermuda shorts.

Several pieces that take on color - yellow or bright blue - evoke the clothes of sailors.

Dior men's show in Paris, January 20, 2023 © Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP

Chunky 3D-printed shoes and boots also invite outdoor activities.

The handbags are stripped of superfluous elements in an approach to simplification in homage to Yves Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent, appointed at the age of 21 to Christian Dior after the latter's death and who presented his first collection for this house 65 years ago in 1958, is the main source of inspiration for this parade.

At Saint Laurent, which returned to the Men's Fashion Week calendar at the start of the week after a long absence, the long, flowing silhouette was in the spotlight.

Also adopted by Charlotte Gainsbourg - black trouser suit and white blouse - who played the piano during the intimate fashion show.

The brand Friend of Alexandre Mattiussi organized a mixed fashion show Thursday evening at the Bastille opera, which Charlotte Rampling closed in an oversized navy blue trouser suit.

British actress Charlotte Rampling at the Ami fashion show in Paris, January 19, 2023 © Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT / AFP

In front of an audience of celebrities including Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni, Xavier Dolan or Pierre Niney, paraded a very wearable and interchangeable wardrobe especially for jackets and coats with broad shoulders.

Creator of "pragmatic" men's fashion, Alexandre Mattiussi won over several admirers, particularly in the world of cinema, and dressed Sophie Marceau and Rossy de Palma for the red carpet in Cannes.

The new collection aims to be "light with softer materials" in light and pastel colors and a fluid silhouette.

rave party

The Belgian Dries Van Noten organized "a rave party" in a garage where we fell on each level on experimental musicians before arriving at the parade, standing, sipping beers.

Dries Van Noten fashion show in Paris, January 19, 2023 © Emmanuel DUNAND / AFP

"I would like to have that energy and self-expression of a 90s rave party, mixed with surreal elements of nature," he told reporters.

"Shape is important: wide shoulders, narrow waists, it's all about comfort," he said.

Earthy tones, raw materials that seem washed out blend with fine knits in flesh tones.

Fur clogs give texture to sleek lines, sturdy boots suggest exploration.

The pants are fluid with a high waist.

Paul Smith fashion show in Paris, January 20, 2023 © Emmanuel DUNAND / AFP

At the Briton Paul Smith, the jackets "are longer and softer, very comfortable to wear" and the mesh has "an important place".

Pants feature adjustable snaps and side slits.

They are worn with bordered overcoats as well as cropped bombers.

© 2023 AFP