Highlight of the third day of Men's Fashion Week, the parade took place in a huge austere hall of the Prada Foundation which sets the scene for a collection firmly rooted in reality, at the antipodes of show fashion.
"As designers, we are very aware of what is happening, the problems, the difficulties. It is a complicated moment in the world, and we are reacting to it", commented Miuccia Prada.
Prada fashion show during the presentation of the men's fall-winter 2023-2024 collection, January 15, 2023 in Milan © MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
"We worked with honesty to create useful clothes for people", reflecting "our idea of reality", she stressed, adding that Prada wanted to "create fashion that has meaning".
The collection gives pride of place to classic chic, with minimalist jackets, brightened up by colorful collars with large points and combined with traditional shirts and ties as well as leather shopping bags.
Prada fashion show during the presentation of the men's fall-winter 2023-2024 collection, January 15, 2023 in Milan © MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
Like other major labels, Prada has drawn on the traditional repertoire to create a simple silhouette, stripped of frills, by embellishing it with small doses of eccentricity.
Tunics or dresses?
Cigarette pants with pleats in black, navy blue, bright red or even green coexist with oversized bomber jackets in silky material.
The classic hooded duffle coat has been updated, with long coat and short jacket versions.
Little touches of fantasy, red or yellow stripes adorn the sleeves of certain jackets, and tunics that look fiercely like dresses borrowed from women's wardrobes are worn over suit pants.
Prada fashion show during the presentation of the men's fall-winter 2023-2024 collection, January 15, 2023 in Milan © MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
The new collection is linked to "Prada's DNA, because the clothes contain fragments of its recognizable identity" and reflect "the history of the brand", analyzed Raf Simons.
This parade comes a few days before a crucial board of directors for the label which will seal on January 26 a handover at the head of the group founded in 1913 by the grandfather of Miuccia Prada.
Andrea Guerra, former executive of eyewear giant Luxottica, should be elected CEO of Prada to ensure the transition pending the arrival at the helm of the company of Lorenzo Bertelli, 34, the eldest son of Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli .
Prada fashion show during the presentation of the men's fall-winter 2023-2024 collection, January 15, 2023 in Milan © MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
The future pilot
Rally driver Lorenzo Bertelli joined the company's board of directors in May 2021 as executive director.
He is responsible for the marketing and communication strategy and sustainability initiatives.
Meanwhile, current CEO Patrizio Bertelli, 76, is expected to be elected chairman of the board at the annual general meeting of shareholders for the approval of the 2022 accounts.
Prada fashion show during the presentation of the men's fall-winter 2023-2024 collection, January 15, 2023 in Milan © MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
Accounts that shine elsewhere, with a profit doubled in the first half, to 188 million euros, and a turnover of 1.9 billion euros, up 22% at constant exchange rates .
Miuccia Prada, 73, will remain a board member and chief creative officer of Prada, alongside Raf Simons, 55, who joined the group in April 2020.
The Belgian designer announced in November that he was ending the fashion brand bearing his name after "an extraordinary 27-year journey", which could allow him to commit even more to the Italian luxury house.
Prada fashion show during the presentation of the men's fall-winter 2023-2024 collection, January 15, 2023 in Milan © MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
Asked by Vogue magazine about possible retirement plans, Miuccia Prada replied that she hoped to continue her collaboration with Raf Simons for a long time.
"I like to work," she said in this interview published on Friday.
"Maybe one day Miuccia will leave, and then I can continue and take over. But we are not there. We are enthusiastic about the idea of doing this work together", assured the Belgian stylist.
© 2023 AFP