The Belgian designer chose the theme "from darkness to light" for his first physical women's show since 2020. During the health crisis, he had presented his collections in films despite the return to physical shows for more than a year. .

After the first impeccably elegant black pieces (suits, jackets with oversized shoulders or sculptural dresses), the show gradually took on colors with massive jewels passing through pastel pieces to finish in floral prints.

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Shoes with curved heels and frills do not go unnoticed.

Transparency and lightness contrast with the structure: thus a masculine jacket is worn with a chiffon skirt.

The textural elements - smocks, hooks, gathers and ruffles - are worked by hand.

Princesses in sneakers

Dane Cecilie Bahnsen, one of the few representatives of Scandinavian fashion at Paris Fashion Week, paraded princesses in sneakers with a new collection of voluminous, cool and romantic dresses in light colors.

Despite their elaborate construction combining asymmetries, ribbons and cutouts, they are easy to wear with flats or layered over jeans.

"Girls (...) could put on a dress on a rainy Tuesday morning to feel good, or go to a party on a Saturday night (...). I like the idea of ​​being able to create something precious for each day,” says Cecilie Bahnsen in the parade note.

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Loose-fitting, these dresses are suitable for all body types, as proven by the varied casting for the parade, which took place in the rain in the courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris.

Frilly and crinolines

Artistic director of the French house Rochas, Charles de Vilmorin invited himself to the mythical theater of the Folies Bergère, where Josephine Baker, Jean Gabin, Dalida or the couturier Jean Paul Gaultier had performed, with his first show.

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Abundance of ruffles and frills, punk hairstyles, jeweled heels: the collection corresponded to the spirit of the place.

Corsets worn over a white shirt and basket dresses are allowed, but the collection also offers more conventional pieces such as a plaid trouser suit or long white or fuchsia dresses.

© 2022 AFP