Viticulture: Does Riesling still have a future?

Soon Muscaris and Rondo in the wine glass instead of Riesling and Pinot Noir?

It is not to be expected that fungus-resistant varieties (Piwis) will replace the traditional German grape varieties in the foreseeable future.

This is not only because vineyards are only cleared and replanted after 30 years or more of yield and many winegrowers are conservative people.

The Riesling in particular gives the, at least so far, cooler German wine regions an unmistakable profile in the global wine world.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, on the other hand, grow almost everywhere in the world.

In the Rheingau, they are at best an interesting addition to the tried and tested range.

Riesling not in question for the time being

The leading grape variety Riesling, which thrives on 80 percent of the 3,200 hectares of Rheingau vineyards, is not being questioned for the time being, despite the accumulation of warm and dry summers.

Even if scientists are skeptical about the future of Riesling if climate change continues unchecked, many winegrowers are convinced that they will still have enough viticultural instruments for the next few decades to keep Riesling in its accustomed place.

This includes, among other things, the choice of the most suitable Riesling clones, the orientation of the rows of vines, soil management and, for some sites, possibly also irrigation.

The founding of new wineries that rely on Piwis is nevertheless an exciting experiment.

Piwis will remain niche wines for the foreseeable future.

However, they are an indispensable element so that viticulture can meet the EU requirements for a constant reduction in the use of pesticides.

Piwis are considered climate grape varieties because they require only a minimum of plant protection due to their resistance to the greatest threats to productive viticulture over many years.

This means that the winegrower has to drive through the rows of vines with a tractor and sprayer much less frequently.

In terms of sustainability, this is a win because the CO2 footprint is significantly smaller.

But in the end it's all about wine and taste.

Drops pressed from Piwis not only have to taste good, they have to taste excellent and prove themselves in blind tastings compared to traditional varieties.

Only then will the winegrower give up his reticence and the customer his skepticism.

There is a long way to go until then, as the first tests with Piwis in the Rheingau show.

But even the longest journey begins with the first courageous step.