Emerging from a decades-long civil war, coconut palm-lined beaches and exotic wildlife had made the country a popular tourist destination.

But power cuts, endless lines at gas stations and food shortages are shattering hopes of an economic recovery through tourism, a key sector for stemming the escalating financial crisis in the Sri Lanka, facing its worst crisis since its independence in 1948.

"Because of the power cuts, we cannot serve our customers," Dilip Sandaruwan, the owner of the inn plunged into darkness, told AFP.

"They are not satisfied and are asking for reductions".

Upset

His guesthouse, located a short walk from the beach in the coastal town of Mirissa, is struggling to attract bookings.

Guests complain about the lack of air conditioning in the sweltering tropical nights, and hoteliers lack access to online booking platforms.

“We are always on edge,” says Mr. Sandaruwan.

"We don't know how to repay our loans and the banks are putting a lot of pressure on us."

A tourist walks on the beach in Mirissa, Sri Lanka, March 25, 2022 Ishara S. KODIKARA AFP

The worsening fuel shortage is also making travel difficult and creating endless lines of motorbike taxis stuck in front of service stations.

"I never tell strangers there's a fuel problem," says Pradeep Chandana De Silva, owner of a tour company.

Before dawn, he sends his employees every day to hunt for diesel fuel so that he can take tourists through the Balapitiya mangroves.

“If the queues get longer and there is less fuel, it will be terrible for the whole industry,” he warns.

On Thursday, diesel could not be found in all stations on the island, according to the authorities and the media, which forced the State to impose a generalized blackout of electricity for 13 hours - the longest on record - lack of diesel for the generators.

Seriously short of foreign currency, the island of 22 million people is unable to import vital goods, leading to severe shortages, from medicine to cement.

Low recovery

Tourists, however, are often unaware of the seriousness of the situation.

"We didn't know much until we got here," confesses Ayesha Khan, an Indian tourist, breaking off a romantic sunset walk on Mirissa beach with her husband.

Tourists on the beach of Mirissa in Sri Lanka, March 25, 2022 Ishara S. KODIKARA AFP

They now know that their driver waited for hours to refuel.

The electricity in their accommodation was also regularly cut without warning, but they do not regret their trip.

A weak post-pandemic recovery began late last year, with nearly 100,000 tourists in February, around 40% of the peaks seen in previous years.

But at the end of the same month, Russia invaded Ukraine, stopping almost all tourism from the two countries, which represent the first and third source of foreign visitors to the island.

Today, according to experts, even a thriving tourist industry would not be enough to pull Sri Lanka out of the spiral of debt.

"Even in the years when tourism was at its peak, Sri Lanka still had a deficit...and had to borrow from foreign capital markets," said Suramya Ameresekera, an economist for consultancy JB Securities in the capital. Colombo.

Two Indian tourists, Ayesha Khan (L) and Afnan Syed, during an interview with AFP in Mirissa, Sri Lanka, March 25, 2022 Ishara S. KODIKARA AFP

"If tourism has resumed since the Covid (...) it is not enough at all."

The government is working to shield holidaymakers from the hardships faced by most of the country's 22 million people.

Accredited tour guides are allowed to skip the gas lines, much to the annoyance of other drivers waiting in line.

The Sri Lankans "treat us really well, so it was good to come here now," said Nazareth Marina, a Spanish tourist.

© 2022 AFP