In the morning light, the Lugana is irresistible.

The haze over the meadows flows around them like a silky cloak, the first rays of sun caress the undulating hills.

This idyllic landscape spreads out just a few kilometers south of Lake Garda, criss-crossed by small rivers.

There is no longer any trace of the tourist hustle and bustle.

It is lonely and rural here, vegetables and wine are grown on small estates, the fertile soil shimmers reddish in the early light.

One hundred and sixty years ago, it was red with blood because it became the scene of one of the most horrific battles of the nineteenth century: on June 24, 1859, the combined armies of the French and Piedmontese met the Habsburg troops occupying Northern Italy.

More than three hundred thousand soldiers fought doggedly hand to hand for almost a whole day.

After fourteen hours of terrible slaughter, the Austrians were defeated.

The Battle of Solferino brought the decisive victory for the Risorgimento, the Italian freedom movement, paving the way for the founding of the state.

The thunder of eight hundred cannons made the earth tremble, the air must have been filled with the noise of gunshots, the neighing of horses and the screams of warriors.

Quirky mix

The contrast couldn't be greater today.

Solferino now lies quiet and peaceful in the midday sun.

There is a premature siesta mood, nobody is about, the parking lot in front of the museum is empty.

However, the war also sends its regards here.

In the middle of the square stands a towering angel of victory with a laurel wreath, opposite the Café Vittoria invites you to a cappuccino.

The museum cash desk is not manned at the moment, no visitor has strayed here today.

A kind of local museum awaits us, a bizarre mixture of armory and souvenir shop.

As a bang, a large cannon stands in the middle of the room, the barrel aimed straight at us.

We carefully sneak around them.

Pistols and rifles are neatly lined up in glass showcases up to the ceiling, apparently a gem: "Flint muzzle-loading rifle, caliber 17.50 mm with smooth barrel and triangular bayonet attachment," is proudly explained to the viewer, right next to it is a well-assorted collection of different bayonets .

Nice uniforms, caps and medals of all warring parties are presented.

On the walls larger than life generals, politicians and kings look down on us.

The picture of the French imperial family is almost touching, with a child in shiny patent-leather shoes sitting on Napoleon III's lap.

and plays with his medals while the wife looks on with a smile.

The Battle of Solferino is recreated in a lovingly arranged landscape panorama with tin soldiers, the scenery looks playful, like in a child's room.