The 100 thousand churros a day in San Ginés: "Things always happen here"

The great specialty of San Ginés is churros soaked in cheddar cheese.

Peace of mind, peace of mind ... That was the great specialty of their branch in Shanghai.

Daniel Real, a lifelong churrero master in San Ginés, in Sol, went there in 2012 to promote the

and, after two months thinking about it, it turned out that the conquest of the clientele was to change the chocolate for the cheese, that heresy.

In Sol, for the rest, things continue as they have been for 127 years.

Daniel Real

can account for the last 14, since he moved from Santander to Madrid and in search of a livelihood he was offered a position in the office -

- in San Ginés. He had worked in hospitality since he was 16 years old, he studied cooking, he was tempted to be a pastry chef -his first job-, but the confirmation came to him in Madrid. «I liked the world of churro [like the world of cinema, football, journalism, why not]. I paid attention to the companions a lot and

as a churrero. I wouldn't mind retiring here. I don't wake up thinking: 'How lazy'. I like the family atmosphere, with people who have been there for 25 years ».

In San Ginés there are 65 people, "a dozen" in charge of the boiler, churros masters like Daniel who on Christmas, family and cold days -both less this year-, come to bill

. In pre-pandemic times, the number tripled. And that explains why the original San Ginés today are four places in just 50 meters; explains that they also opened in

, the first beyond kilometer zero, or that they have just expanded, for the first time, outside the capital, to

, this summer. And things are going well. There they don't get to the point of cheddar, but the churros are of the knitting type: "A very thin baton, crunchier, fluffier, a kind of crystal bread."

So far, the cosmopolitan notes for the traditional customer, the one who asks for churros and never

- due to the influence of the national tourist, they have already risen to

- and who is obliged to visit his Mecca annually.

The taste is known.

But maybe not so much why.

Daniel Real, in the kitchen of San Ginés.ALBERTO DI LOLLI

Master class

with Daniel Real: «The churro dough is very simple, made with water, flour and salt. It seems simple, but there is

. In the flour we do a special drying, so that it does not absorb a lot of oil. Thus, when frying the churro, it remains

inside, nor greasy. And the oil temperature should be 195-200 degrees. In the case of batons, the thermometer rises to 235 degrees and, although the root is identical, "the flour is a little finer and has a part of bicarbonate to suffice."

The miracle is completed with

;

if not, the churro is lame.

There is also art and science there: «It is

, but without soaking, so that the churro remains crunchy in the mouth and does not load the stomach.

We serve it at 80 degrees, and it fixes your body ».

Daniel makes himself believe, all honesty.

He doesn't hide that he prefers salty to sweet, that he hardly indulges in churros once a year, at Christmas ... "People walk by the door and say:

Yes, it smells good, but if you spend the day surrounded by chocolate ... ».

From that kitchen he saw two million people pass by in 2019, including many famous people in civilian clothes. It is not pose the collection of photos of celebrities that overflows the walls. "Things happen every day." Daniel only breaks confidentiality with a recent trio: former US President

; Facebook founder

and Brunei Princess

. «They tell you that he is coming and then they appear in a tracksuit. It seems very good to me, they come as anyone ».

Sometimes that anyone, a real case,

his wife to

him

in San Ginés.

Crazy scene, perhaps, but the place always had an air

, where you can end up at the wrong time if the night goes on forever.

It will not be possible this December 31st.

They still have "the shock of the Covid: a site that was

, had to close for two months."

Now, the blinds are drawn down at midnight, but with the intention of joining the days again soon.

In San Ginés, there is no greater value than

.

And that is why it is difficult for Daniel to understand why if the Chinese, when they come to Madrid in August, have chocolate, there they had to be given melted cheese.

It couldn't last.

According to the criteria of The Trust Project

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