Vanessa Paradis, Sofia Coppola and other guests in tweed jackets accessorized with quilted bags flocked to the brand-new Porte d'Aubervilliers building in northern Paris, a district known for its migrant camps and unaccustomed to the splendor of the luxury.

Like the site Chanel wanted to host eleven workshops under the same roof, including the embroiderers Lesage and Montex, the shoemaker Massaro, or the feather and flower expert Lemarié, the collection of the artistic director of Chanel Virginie. Viard has merged the worlds of luxury and the street.

Chanel Métiers d'art show in Paris, December 7, 2021 Christophe ARCHAMBAULT AFP

Many graphic embroidery like those of Montex in silver sequins are inspired by the structure of the building with the facade adorned with white concrete threads, imagined by the architect Rudy Ricciotti, author among others of MuCEM in Marseille.

Sweatshirt and Bermuda shorts

On the catwalk, an abundance of knitwear, cardigans, but also "total looks" such as a mauve set made up of bustier, culotte skirt, jacket and neck warmer.

Feathers and sequins are omnipresent, the parade being dedicated to these craftsmen.

Chanel Métiers d'art show at 19M in Paris, December 7, 2021 Christophe ARCHAMBAULT AFP

The heels of the two-tone babies - beige and black - are adorned with pearls and long leather gloves are worn with a mixture of jewels.

The collection is "very urban while remaining sophisticated, with tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery (...) voluminous knit Bermuda sets and casual coats worn open", emphasizes Virginie Viard in the note of intent of the parade.

Chanel Métiers d'art show in Paris, December 7, 2021 Christophe ARCHAMBAULT AFP

The invitation box includes a collection of texts by rappers like MC Solaar or Abd al Malik, and writers like Sarah Chiche, Anne Berest or Nina Bouraoui, telling their vision of the art houses that reside at 19M.

Inspired by manga and avant-garde animation, the film directed by REMEMBERS which accompanies the collection brings another quirky note to present rare know-how.

Over 6,000 little hands

With a surface area of ​​25,500 m2 and equipped with a garden, the 19M named after the Parisian district where it is located and to which it hopes to bring shine, as well as the birthday of Gabrielle Chanel (August 19) will also eventually host exhibitions.

Chanel fashion show at 19M in the north of Paris, a new space dedicated to luxury crafts, December 7, 2021 Christophe ARCHAMBAULT AFP

After the virtual 2020 parade filmed in the framework of the Château de Chenonceau with the only guest the American actress Kristen Stewart unveiled online in the midst of a health crisis, that of Tuesday was surrounded by draconian security measures.

All guests had to take a PCR test the day before, in addition to their health pass.

Wearing a mask was required even outside the building.

Chanel is the only fashion house to present the Métiers d'art collections since 2002, to highlight exceptional know-how.

Chanel has acquired since 1985 nearly forty craft houses which lacked funding, located in France, Italy, Spain and Scotland and which employ more than 6,600 people.

Chanel Métiers d'art show in Paris, December 7, 2021 Christophe ARCHAMBAULT AFP

These artisans work for Chanel, but also for other luxury houses and place orders for ready-to-wear collections.

"When we started working with these houses in the years 1985-1990, they were scattered all over Paris. These workshops have become too small. In order for them to continue to develop and attract new talent, it was necessary to give back a boost to history, "Chanel's president of fashion activities, Bruno Pavlovsky, told AFP in 2019.

© 2021 AFP