October sun, but cold winds and fog over the mountains, it met me this morning here in Luino in northern Italy.

And all Italians who, with their work shifts ready in their mobile phones, set off for their jobs.

Car mechanics, firefighters, bakers, shop owners - regardless of job type, all Italians must from today have a covid pass to be able to work and get paid.

Those who refuse vaccines must take a covid test every other day, which is both expensive and cumbersome.

The queues outside Italian pharmacies that perform the tests are long.

News from various protests around the country during the day is shown on TV - all so far peaceful, in contrast to last weekend's riots in Rome.

But the feelings of the covidpass's opponents are strong.

"I want to leave this country"

At Crystal Lake Bar, right next to Luino's beautiful promenade, my photographer Domenico and I meet the couple Giusy and Antonello Lai.

He is a bar owner, she his employees and both vaccine opponents.

Giusy slices up prosciutto and mozzarella, prepares paninis and salads, while Antonello goes off and on, increasingly furious, when he talks about the vaccine pass, which is called the Green Pass here in Italy.

"It is an undemocratic thing, a shame, I want to leave this country, I no longer trust the government.

They want to force us to vaccinate, it's devilish! ”

There are tones that are heard everywhere.

Opponents of the vaccine feel that their freedom is being violated.

At the same time, a number of opinion polls show a solid public support for the passports, as well as the fact that over 70 percent of Italians are fully vaccinated.

No increasing death toll

Last year at exactly this time, the summer respite from the pandemic was about to end at a furious pace.

The death toll began to rise again, hospitals were filled, restrictions came back, as was the fear that had paralyzed Italy for far too long.

Now, a year later and with the vaccine, the pattern is completely different.

The death toll does not increase with the onset of autumn and the infection is kept in check.

Therefore, people can now again go to completely full bars, cinemas, arenas and theaters - as long as they have covidpass.

I see how Luino lights his candles towards evening and people go out, finely dressed, playful, without mouth guards.

It feels almost as usual again - in a way.

Because at the same time, the tensions lurk beneath the surface, between them with and without passes.

We have booked a table at a restaurant and are let into the heat - after we first got the covid pass carefully checked in the door, of course.