London (AFP)

After several editions relegated mainly online by the pandemic, the parades resumed in London on Friday for a Fashion Week bearing hope for the fashion industry, after the lifting of most of the anti-coronavirus restrictions.

In February, London Fashion Week was held in a 100% virtual format, parades with the public being banned in a country in full lockdown.

This time, "this international event returns to mark the long awaited cultural reopening of London", welcomed the British Fashion Council, which represents the industry.

On the program of these five days dedicated to the spring-summer 2022 collections, 28 shows including those of well-established stylists such as the British Edward Crutchley, the Serbian Roksanda or the Irish Simone Rocha, whose brand is celebrating its tenth anniversary.

But also two notable absentees: the former Spice girl converted fashion designer Victoria Beckham and the luxury house Burberry.

Stylist Saul Nash, 28, kicked off the runway shows Friday morning with a sportswear collection exploring his teenage years in Hackney, a north-east London neighborhood.

The stylist, who is also a dancer and choreographer, places freedom of movement at the heart of his creations, fluid pieces with removable sleeves or hoods.

The short-sleeved shirt, an integral part of the English school uniform, is revisited with breathable fabric inserts and a zipper, for a chic and relaxed look.

A model wears her hair before the catwalk shows at London Fashion Week, September 17, 2021 Tolga Akmen AFP

In a completely different style, make room for pomp at the Briton Edward Crutchley with puffy dresses in lime green or with floral prints.

Here the fabrics are shimmering and the luxury apparent.

- Emerging talents -

While some stylists are returning to the catwalks, others prefer to present their collections by appointment only or in the form of videos visible on the digital platform of Fashion Week, launched in June 2020 to adapt to the health context.

Michael Halpern, 32-year-old American designer, has unveiled a flamboyant collection - dresses with feathered sequins or all draped - in a short film shot at the Royal Opera House, with the dancers as models who will perform again in front of an audience this month. next after a break of over a year.

Models present creations by Bora Aksu, September 17, 2021 at London Fashion Week Tolga Akmen AFP

In total, 131 brands will be present at the London meeting which follows New York Fashion Week and precedes Milan.

Among the emerging talents, London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka, founder of the eponymous brand, presented her very first fashion show on Friday.

A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school in London, the 27-year-old stylist has just won the LVMH 2021 prize for young talent after seducing the jury with her glamorous designs and black slip dresses.

The Canadian Mark Fast, a knitting specialist, took over a parking lot in Soho, in the heart of the capital, for a show paying tribute to underground London in the 1990s. Here, the dress is worn ultra-tight, ultrashort and adorned with chains.

Adept of neon colors, the stylist has broadened his palette to pastel tones.

Denim jackets are washed or hand painted graffiti.

The brand claims to have experienced "considerable growth" last year, and opened stores in Beijing, Chongqing and Hong Kong.

The UK fashion industry, which employed some 890,000 people in 2019, is hoping to rebound after suffering from the pandemic.

Make-up session before the London Fashion Week shows, September 17, 2021 Tolga Akmen AFP

According to data from Oxford Economics for the Federation of Creative Industries and the Creative England Federation, "with the right investments" the creative sector could recover faster than the UK economy as a whole.

In July, Burberry announced that during its shifted first quarter, its sales had returned to their pre-pandemic level.

On the other hand, turnover in Europe continued to suffer from the lack of tourists.

© 2021 AFP