Milan (AFP)

The Sicilian duo Dolce & Gabbana presented Saturday in Milan a masculine collection all in light and eccentricity, faithful to its DNA of rhinestones, lamé and sequins, as if to chase the depression after the dark months of the pandemic.

The Metropol, a former cinema that has become the brand's headquarters, has become a temple of light for the occasion, as transposed in the native Sicily of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the brand's inexhaustible inspiration matrix.

The show, the first in the flesh of men's fashion week which kicked off on Friday, shone in all colors, in a nod to the extravagant garments of 2000s fashion.

Shirts in printed poplin or with a jewel effect are worn crossed and open over unstructured jeans or low-waisted silk pants, combining relaxation and elegance.

Floral kimonos, jackets with leopard or zebra pattern prints or with crystal embellishments, in brocade, lace or satin: the two designers honor the spirit of celebration and folklore of their brand.

Among the accessories, fancy gold earrings and pendants appear as essentials at D&G, as do the newsboy cap and colorful bags.

- 'Light therapy' -

Dolce & Gabbana's Spring / Summer 2022 collection has been titled "Light Therapy", a symbol of the return to life and exuberance after a gray period marked by the pandemic.

The invitation card, a multicolored luminous tablet, had set the tone.

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The reappearance of physical parades, "it is a strong message that testifies to the desire for recovery and the gradual return to normal life, in complete safety," the president of the Italian Fashion Chamber told AFP, Carlo Capasa.

Like all the other handpicked spectators in the parade, he wore a mask, and the distances between the few places were carefully respected.

Only three of the 47 parades for the spring-summer 2022 season that will take place in Milan until Tuesday are in the presence of an audience.

After Dolce & Gabbana, it will be the turn of Etro on Sunday and Armani on Monday.

The vast majority of brands broadcast recorded presentations or short films on the dedicated platform of the Fashion Chamber, their own communication channels or even social networks.

- Change of scenery -

This was the case for Tod's, which on Saturday unveiled a presentation plunging the fashionista into the fiction of a colonial era safari universe, transposed under the Tuscan sun.

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A collection embroidered around nature but also the uniform, sometimes elegant, sometimes functional, revisited by the creative director Walter Chiapponi in a relaxed style.

A change of scenery is guaranteed, in explorer outfit, parachute pants or Bermuda shorts in light cotton or hemp, small camera bag, in khaki, beige, off-white or brown shades, reflecting the natural tones of the bush.

Tod's had made the buzz in April by appointing the queen of Italian influencers, Chiara Ferragni, to its board of directors, an announcement which immediately caused her title to fly on the Milan Stock Exchange.

Ermenegildo Zegna opened the parades on Friday, also in a digital format, with a collection that, like Tod's, emphasizes natural colors, combining shades of white, mineral green or soft wood.

The common thread of the collection, freedom of movement, with fluid materials and volumes, light fabrics, associated with clean cuts, collarless jackets, loose overshirts and Bermuda shorts and fine quilted leather slippers.

© 2021 AFP