Despite the health situation, the French in mainland France can now go to Polynesia during the summer. To discover the treasures of these South Pacific islands, our columnist Jean-Bernard Carillet, also author for the Lonely Planet , takes you on Thursday to the idyllic Tuamotu Islands or to the Marquesas Islands, to go diving, dance the haka or enjoy freshly caught fish.
A variety of archipelagos
To make the most of your stay, it is better to stay there for at least three weeks. This will give you time to discover two must-see archipelagos: the four Society Islands, which include Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine and Bora Bora, and two atolls in the Tuamotu. You have the choice between the 78 atolls that make up this group of islands. But Rangiroa and Fakarava are safe bets for a first trip.
By visiting two archipelagos, you will see high islands, their mountains and their lagoons but also atolls. These two experiences will immerse you in two completely different atmospheres, to the point of even having the feeling of changing country. The connections between each island are provided by plane, through the local company Air Tahiti. This offers circuits, accessible in the form of a pass, to visit several islands during the same trip.
The Tuamotu archipelago, the embodiment of blue paradise
Located east of Tahiti, in French Polynesia, the Tuamotu Islands are bordered by coral reefs and planted with coconut palms. Atolls come in all shapes and sizes and not all are inhabited. There, we live there simply, fishing and harvesting coconuts but also tourism.
Polynesia therefore promises travelers an absolute change of scenery. As soon as you travel by plane, flying over the territory, you can see through the porthole necklaces of islands floating on the blue Pacific Ocean. In this totally unspoiled nature, tourists can meet people from Tahiti. Considering the Tuamotus as the end of the world, some indeed come here to recharge their batteries.
These islands, which stretch for 1,500 km, have only a handful of hotels. Because to find accommodation, staying in family pensions is more of a habit. In most cases, families who own bungalows on their property, by the lagoon, rent them out to visitors.
Rather scuba diving and sea trips ...
In this idyllic setting, diving enthusiasts will particularly enjoy the Rangiroa atoll. The experience will be all the more magical if they go near the Tiputa pass, a channel with the lagoon and the ocean to communicate. The currents, caused by the tides, attract all the fauna, in particular manta rays, dolphins and especially many gray sharks.
Those who prefer to walk can turn to nautical excursions on the islets of the lagoon. For an entire day on an islet, visitors will enjoy swimming in the translucent water, tasting coconut and freshly caught grilled fish. An experience that can then end with a nap in the shade of the coconut palms waddling under the caress of the trade winds.
... or dance and canoe race?
Polynesia also invites you to travel thanks to its rich and exotic culture. In the Society Islands, canoe racing, for example, is a national sport which brings together both men and women. Dance is also an integral part of traditional culture. It is not used to entertain tourists but rather expresses Polynesian identity. From children to mothers, dancing is an activity shared by all. The costumes, entirely vegetable and handmade, are magnificent.
Our columnist Jean-Bernard Carillet admits to having a weakness for Marquesan dances. Because the Marquesas Islands are the cradle of the haka, a ritual dance practiced by New Zealand rubgymen before a match. According to him, it is in the Marquesas that we find the most beautiful, strongest and most powerful hakas.
How to get to Polynesia?
Despite the Covid-19 pandemic, commercial flights have resumed with the company Air Tahiti Nui. But the trip is subject to several conditions: you must be able to present a negative test for Covid-19 dating less than three days before the flight but also perform a self-sample four days after arrival thanks to a kit given to the traveler.
Count 22 hours of flight with a stopover in Vancouver, and tickets at a minimum price of 1,235 euros.