A region popular in summer for its anti-scorching temperatures and its wild coastline, Brittany is full of magnificent places that this particular season in terms of tourism allows you to discover or rediscover. The columnist of " What if we leave?" on Europe 1, Jean-Bernard Carillet, decided on Monday to unearth sites not necessarily very well known but ideal for familiarizing themselves with Breton culture and landscapes. The author for the Lonely Planet sets his sights on the Monts d'Arrée, the Valley of the Saints or the island of Sein.
The unique setting of the Monts d'Arrée
The Monts d'Arrée, in the center of Finistère, admittedly only offer a maximum altitude of 385 m. Suffice to say that in the rest of France, it looks like a small hill. But there is nevertheless a mountain spirit here that cuts you off from the rest of Brittany. Despite the low altitude, it is a real mountain setting. There are no peaks, everything is rounded, but it's fascinating.
The landscape is impressive, almost unreal. You can see the peeled Landes, small ridge of razor-blade schist that are parallel to each other. We are struck by the mysterious and fantastic atmosphere enhanced by the play of light, especially at dawn, with grazing light. We also admire the haze scarves which slowly dissipate as the wind picks up.
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It is not surprising that the Monts d'Arrée are a land of legend that has fueled the imagination. When we take a walk in this massif, we wonder if we are not going to surprise an assembly of druids in full ceremony. Or maybe, emerging from peat bogs or fern beds, we will come across a korrigan, one of those bearded Celtic elves from the depths of time, who will come to taunt you. Better to come across a korrigan than the Ankou, the Grim Reaper, a symbol of death. His den would be somewhere in these Monts d'Arrée. You will find storytelling walks there, with disguised storytellers, sometimes even at night during the full moon.
The charm of a "Breton Easter Island"
In the interior, there is another surprising place to visit: it is called 'Breton Easter Island'. These are not the menhirs of Carnac, but a much more contemporary site, since it is barely ten years old. It is the Valley of the Saints, in the Côtes d'Armor, south-east of Morlaix. This Valley of the Saints is a unique and unusual project. It is a mixture of past and future, of culture and art, of legends and of reality.
It is a work of art in the open air, with enormous granite sculptures that are 3-4 m high, on a hill. These sculptures represent Breton saints, who are very important in Breton popular culture. The names of towns reflect this influence, with Saint-Brieuc, Saint-Malo, Saint-Quai-Portrieux.
So far, a little less than a hundred sculptures have been made. It is a work in motion, an evolving project. Each year, there are other statues that are added to those that have been made. Every summer, you can see the sculptors at work, carving the granite blocks. It is planned to make 1,000! It will be one of the largest Land Art sites - outdoor art - in the world. When you are there, you really have the impression that it is like Easter Island, with the moai.
The unmissable atmosphere of the Ile de Sein
In Brittany, there are very many islands. That of Sein, off the Pointe du Raz, has remained very authentic and has kept its soul. It is an island that vibrates, in short. The arrival at the Ile de Sein, from Audierne, is done with the shipping company Penn ar Bed after an hour of crossing. There, you can contemplate the Vieille lighthouse, the steep cliffs, the jagged Pointe du Raz and the liners, who are the bass fishermen.
The guide of the Archipel Excursion association will pick you up in a zodiac (400 CV) and take you along the island of Sein before arriving at the famous Chaussée de Sein and its schools of bottlenose dolphins. They approach the boat and play near the bow. There are also colonies of gray seals in a banana position on the rocks of the Chaussée de Sein. It's a superb maritime atmosphere with, as a bonus, the mythical lighthouse of Ar Men. We can see it in all the storm photos. Its construction was perilous and it is still difficult to access it. And for the fun side, we speed boating in the waves with sailors, who are local guys and know the sea in great detail.
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On the Ile de Sein, we will soak up the island atmosphere by going to the bar of the only village, the HQ (ex-Chez Brigitte). It is a meeting place for sea wolves, you can meet the locals there, it speaks Breton and it mixes with tourists. The atmosphere is warm, with entertainment. We will also take a stroll in the village, with small colorful houses. You can climb to the top of the lighthouse, with a magnificent view. When the boat arrives, in summer, we witness touching scenes: the Senans from the continent return in the summer and the farewells on the quay are moving.
Learn to sail in Glénan
Brittany is the ideal region for sailing. You can learn about it almost anywhere. This is the specialty of the Glénan, opposite Concarneau. The largest sailing school in Europe, founded in 1947, is located there and remains a world reference. Big names in sailing drew their first tack here, including Franck Cammas, Vincent Riou and Maud Fontenoy. Introduction to sailing is for all levels. The water is translucent and turquoise. Sometimes we have the impression of being in Polynesia.
A night in the Kerbel lighthouse
Let's end this Breton walk with unusual accommodation: we will spend a night in a lighthouse. On the outskirts of Port-Louis, near Lorient, the Kerbel lighthouse welcomes you from the top of its 25 meters. You have to climb 120 steps (7 floors) before enjoying a 360-degree view of the Bay of Quiberon, Lorient and the island of Groix, offshore.
You have the impression of being cut off from the world, it's ideal for contemplation or a romantic tête-à-tête. It's super cozy: a studio with mahogany parquet floors and designer furniture is housed in the old fire room. With the glass roof, you will enjoy the panorama as soon as you jump out of bed, for the tidy sum of 650 euros per night for two.