Lecce (Italy) (AFP)
Making a collection during confinement was a "miracle", but Dior organized its first post-Covid parade on Wednesday in the historic center of Lecce (southern Italy) dressed in lights to give hope to affected artisans and artists by the crisis.
"Everyone participated with great enthusiasm in this project, we said to ourselves: + let's try, work remotely, with the zoom, but let's go ahead! And when we saw the collection, we decided. is said + it is a miracle. + We did not believe we would ever get there, "Maria Grazia Chiuri, designer of Dior's women's collections, told AFP.
Long dresses in all shades of off-white or in patchwork of embroidered handkerchiefs, poppy and cornflower patterns, wheat ears in raffia embroidered on black silk tulle, a striped fabric like a mattress cover, the profusion of ruffles, even on trousers: the Dior woman goes on a cruise dressed in rustic, but very chic, style.
In a snub to the ambient gloom, it shines and sparkles: the multicolored theme with the predominance of pink and orange is developed on coats in cashmere jacquard or on the legendary Dior bar jacket, in mesh.
- light installations -
Bead and sequin embroidery on muslin or suede echo the light installations. The jewelry is inspired by the collection of works from ancient Greece at the Archaeological Museum of Taranto, in Puglia where the Greek influence is very strong.
This "cruise" collection, which the big Parisian houses present in the spring, outside the four annual Fashion weeks and often abroad, was launched in November, but carried out largely during confinement under unprecedented conditions.
Even without guests, the house maintained the parade initially planned for May, in Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, in the region of Puglia, land dear to Maria Grazia Chiuri, whose father was from and where she spent her holidays with her grown-ups. - farmer mothers.
The Dior haute couture collection, reduced and with miniature clothes, was presented in early July in a film during virtual Fashion week in Paris.
Multiple collaborations at the origin of the Lecce show celebrate and reinterpret the traditional know-how of the region: from the art of weaving to "Luminarie", these luminous architectures which "dress" the cities of southern Italy during celebrations.
During the confinement Maria Grazia Chiuri called the artist Pietro Ruffo and asked him to draw floral designs for a "Miss Dior linked to Puglia".
- Rite of rebirth -
Composer and conductor Paolo Buonvino imagined an accompaniment for the show reinterpreting traditional melodies which was performed by musicians from Orchestra Roma alongside those of a local folk orchestra.
"He made me listen to songs over the phone, it was unreal," says the designer.
Contemporary Israeli choreographer Sharon Eyal designed a dance performance for the parade inspired by the iconic tarantellae of southern Italy believed to induce catharsis freeing body and mind through movement.
For certain fabrics with unique patterns, Maria Grazia Chiuri asked the Le Costantine Foundation, which gives work to women to make them financially independent.
During the lockdown, old wooden looms were transferred to their homes so that they could continue working.
- No fashion without catwalks -
"Amando e cantando" (lover and singing) as their motto proclaims, embroidered on the bottom of certain skirts in the collection.
"Being at home without working was depressing. Creating with your hands helped to overcome this difficult moment," says Maria Grazia Chiuri.
"We are very happy to give the local artisans hope for the future. Everyone was happy to participate in this rite of collective rebirth."
For Dior, maintaining the parade, even in an empty place, was a way of paying homage to the "artists, musicians and artisans" in France and Italy who prepared it and "giving them the opportunity to bounce back" in the midst of the crisis. economy due to the coronavirus pandemic.
"Catwalks are a fundamental expression of fashion. Substituting them with online presentations, personally I don't believe it", concludes Maria Grazia Chiuri.
© 2020 AFP