Bordeaux (AFP)

The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc make their revolution: their annual ranking becomes five-year, and the mentions "superior" and "exceptional" are reintroduced, a homecoming wanted as a commercial weapon even if the excluded cringe.

"Five years, this gives us more flexibility at the commercial level to find partners and perpetuate the links that already exist. It will make a big difference", says Olivier Cuvelier, president of the Alliance of Crus Bourgeois du Médoc.

The first classification, in 2003, was decennial but it had been contested by several absent who reproached the organizers, themselves wine-growers, for being both judges and parties.

Result, in 2008, the classification becomes annual with the only mention "Cru bourgeois", validated on tasting by an independent organization, the office Veritas.

"But many prestigious castles left, since the buyers chose the Crus bourgeois at the lowest prices. The return of a hierarchy will allow them to be drawn up, believes the president. If nothing had been done, the bourgeois Crus would have died of their beautiful death ".

All the reds from the eight Médoc appellations were able to apply for this new 2018-2022 ranking: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac, Moulis, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe, with the novelty of the openness to cooperatives.

The jury selected 249 wines, or 31% of the Medoc production (28 million bottles). The castles that are part of the Grands Crus Classé 1855, a true historic monument of classifications, have no interest in participating.

Five vintages between 2008 and 2016 were tasted blind. Once this first test has passed, the castles wishing to reach the rank of superior or exceptional Crus Bourgeois had to fill out a file, then verified in the field, relating to the application of environmental standards, technique and marketing (reputation of the vintage, wine tourism capacity ...).

The properties, which spent 8,000 euros to present the file and 4,000 euros for the additional mention, had the opportunity to appeal to avoid legal setbacks like those that have agitated Saint-Emilion since its last ten-year ranking in 2012.

- "Important for export" -

Despite these safeguards, "there will undoubtedly be challenges, people who are not happy with their mark", predicts Mr. Cuvelier.

Some have also withdrawn from the race, even before the publication of the winners, for lack of having been classified "superior" or "exceptional".

Like François Boivert, co-owner with his brother Vincent of the château Ormes Sorbet (AOC Médoc): "I am leaving the Crus Bourgeois because beyond the tasting note, I did not fill out a sufficiently complete dossier which was essential to have the additional comment".

"I would have appreciated if the family of Crus Bourgeois warned me that the file had to be more detailed", regrets this wine-grower whose château was already part of the "Cru Bourgeois" union list in 1932.

His brother, Vincent (Château Fontis), on the other hand, chose to stay within the Crus bourgeois, so called because of the bourgeois of Bordeaux who acquired land in the Medoc in the 15th century.

"I do not have a property which enjoys sufficient notoriety to do without the Crus Bourgeois. I need my wines to be tasted by journalists, in particular foreigners, who regularly taste the Crus Bourgeois, give notes" , explains this winemaker.

"It is important for export and trade. It has always been a plus to be Cru bourgeois", adds his brother François.

Positive point of this new classification, it created a certain emulation in the Médoc, side investments. New tasting or reception rooms have opened ...

Vincent Boivert is already thinking about the future. "I am redoing my vat room while also thinking about the next classification!"

And if the test is successful, the most prestigious castles could sign their return to the Crus Bourgeois.

© 2020 AFP