New York (AFP)
Carolina Herrera brightened New York Fashion Week on Monday with a multicolored collection, while Proenza Schouler also expressed resistance to the darkness of the time.
In the two years since he succeeded Carolina Herrera at the head of his eponymous brand, the young thirty-something Wes Gordon has gradually changed it without disturbing it.
He has retained the sophisticated elegance that has made the image of the house, with his particular care for the structure.
But he has partially broken this eternal silhouette of post-war fashion this season to sink into modernity, especially with short dresses or open at the front with cape and belt like Star Wars.
In terms of colors, the designer from Atlanta retained the solar energy that Carolina Herrera had brought, but stripped her of her prints, essential so far, to favor monochrome.
"My main mission and my obsession was to bring as much color as possible to the house," Wes Gordon told AFP after the parade.
"It is above all an answer at the time which is gray and uncertain," he said. "So rather than being won over by this, I chose to make my life and the things on which I took something as colorful as possible."
- Proenza Schouler against the elements -
After a getaway in the 1980s last season, the New York duo Proenza Schouler chose, this time, to face the present, like Wes Gordon.
With a series of large, thick, thick coats, complemented by large shawls, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the two designers offer today's women protection.
"Things are falling apart, crumbling, but they are kept together nevertheless," Lazaro Hernandez told AFP after the parade.
Formerly very experimental, Proenza Schouler plays today within the limits of an approachable fashion and proposed, this season, a deconstructed classicism.
They notably used asymmetry a lot, with only one of the bare shoulders, coats worn at an angle, buttons only on one side or oblique dresses.
New York Fashion Week continues until Wednesday.
© 2020 AFP