Paris (AFP)

The world of French gastronomy holds its breath before the announcement on Monday of the 2020 winners from the Michelin guide, which caused an earthquake by demoting renowned tables like those of Marc Veyrat and more recently, Paul Bocuse.

The ceremony where the new winners of one, two or three stars will be announced will be held from 4.30 p.m. (3.30 p.m. GMT) in Paris and will, as every year, have its share of happy and disappointed.

Among the few names circulating to obtain the third badge, Grail of the profession, include that of Jean-François Piège for his "Grand restaurant" in Paris, that of the Alsatian by adoption Olivier Nasti for "Le Chambard" in Kaysersberg, in Haut-Rhin (east), or that of Christopher Coutanceau, known for sublimating seafood in the table bearing his name in La Rochelle (west).

The only immediate certainties: there will be 628 starred tables this year, four fewer than last year, said Michelin on its website, including 18 new starred restaurants in Paris.

After having withdrawn a few days ago his third star at the restaurant near Lyon (south-east) of the deceased Paul Bocuse, the guide also announced that there would be no other demotions of this type.

"There are no other three-star establishments in 2019" questioned "in the 2020 vintage", announced to AFP the boss of the red guide, Gwendal Poullennec, which is the second edition at this post.

If the three stars - 27 restaurants in France in 2019 - can therefore blow, the other chefs are likely to be in turmoil by then given the repercussions, in terms of reputation and attendance, linked to obtaining one or more stars.

Some did not wait for the official announcement to speak like Florent Ladeyn, the chef of the Auberge du Vert Mont, in Boeschepe (north), and former candidate of the TV show "Top chef". On Saturday, he announced the loss of his only star on Facebook.

"This decision, I do not understand it but I respect it", he wrote, in a long message mixing incomprehension with sadness. "In fact, all things considered, the Michelin guide has the importance that we want to give it," he added, to his customers.

- Anonymous inspectors -

Arrived at this post in September 2018 after fifteen years of home, the guide's boss, Gwendal Poullennec, has earned a reputation as a "head cutter". He prefers to remember that the stars do not inherit but are questioned every year.

In one year, the guide was illustrated by the demotion of several large tables: in addition to Bocuse, the legendary Auberge de l'Ill, in Alsace (east), which had held three stars for 51 years, L'Astrance de Pascal Barbot in Paris, after 11 years at the summit and finally, La Maison des bois by Marc Veyrat in Haute-Savoie (south-east).

Decommissioned in January 2019, barely a year after being crowned, the famous "chef in the black hat" said he was depressed and went to court to ask for evidence of the guide's inspections and the skills of his inspectors. He lost his trial in late 2019.

"We obviously understand the emotion that the loss of a star can cause, but there is no exceptional treatment," argues Mr. Poullennec, defending his inspectors, working anonymously.

"They are professionals, which means that they have training in the hotel industry and mainly in catering. And when they join the Michelin guide, they are also trained at length in the field".

Their criteria? "The choice of products, the mastery of cooking, the harmony of flavors, the personality of the chef who makes the table unique and finally, consistency" throughout the year.

Last year, the Michelin had rewarded an unprecedented number of women, after years of controversy, as well as many foreign chefs including the Argentinian Mauro Colagreco, triple star for his restaurant "Mirazur", in Menton (Alpes-Maritimes, South East).

In total, 75 tables had been promoted, two three stars ("Mirazur" as well as "Le clos des sens" by Laurent Petit, near Lake Annecy, south-east), five two stars and 68 first-star.

© 2020 AFP