AT TABLE !
Accompanied by the chefs Olivier Poels and Yves Camdeborde, Laurent Mariotte offers in La table des bons vivants recipe ideas but also good addresses everywhere in France to sit around a good stew of veal, pot-au feu and other dishes typical of winter. Good ideas for dealing with falling temperatures!
Veal stew
"It's a dish that was originally used to accommodate leftover roast meat, but today it's made from dedicated veal pieces," says chef Yves Camdeborde, known for his mastery of bistro cooking. For a good stew, the choice of meat is essential. Several pieces are preferred as the twin or the chuck. For the seasoning, "a little spice iron ball" advised by Yves Camdeborde is also an ally. "In this dish, if you leave the pepper too long, it becomes bitter, you have to know how to get it right," he says.
At the very end, just "a little egg yolk with lemon" to combine the "subtle side of the yellow and acidity tip," says the chef.
Stew
There too, meat is the key to a good stew. "You need tasty pieces that are a little greasy like the oxtail, you can also put cheek or side dish," advises Yves Camdeborde. For broth, the main thing is cooking. "We cover the meats cold and we bring them slowly to a boil," he adds. As for the stew, count two hours of cooking minimum.
Where to eat a good pot-au-feu? Yves Camdeborne advises the Etchemaïté inn, located in Larrau, a small village in the Pyrenees. Regarding the Breton variant of pot-au-feu, the kig ha farz, the correspondent of Europe 1, François Coulon, has a preference for the restaurant Ty Forn, located in Saint-Hélène, in Morbihan.
The aioli
To enjoy a good aioli, Laurent Mariotte recommends the restaurant Rech in Paris where the chef Jacques Maximim is known for this typical dish of the south of France. "I make an ointment of garlic and I add a hot potato crushed for the emulsion, I put it on the drummer, I cut the olive oil with another one, like that of grape seeds or sunflowers", details there.
The bouillabaisse
The correspondent of Europe 1 in the south of France, Frédéric Michel, advises, meanwhile, the bouillabaisse restaurant "Maurin des Maures" at Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer, in the Var.
The vol-au-vent
Olivier Poels admits, for his part, having feasted recently at the Café des ministries in Paris, enjoying a vol-au-vent "made in the rules of art with ceps, lamb sweetbreads, poultry and a wonderful puff pastry full of sauce ".