• 10-N. The Government will exhume Francisco Franco before October 25, in full electoral campaign
  • Historical memory. Prior of the Valley of the Fallen will not oppose "violent resistance" to Franco's exhumation

"Excuse me, and I wonder where is Spain? Because it has abandoned us ...". "Madam, rather the question would be where is God? Because this cannot be happening, he has abandoned us too ...". With tears in her eyes, the lady turns to the grave of the dictator Francisco Franco, just half an hour before the last visits to the Basilica of the Valley of the Fallen. As soon as the remaining 30 minutes have elapsed, the doors will close and you will not be able to re-enter the entire valley until the exhumation has been completed.

Meanwhile, those who have learned at the last minute that this Friday was the last day with open doors have hurried to get to the box office and pay the nine euros it costs to enter the valley. At this time of the afternoon there are only 30 people around the tomb, where a crown of red and yellow flowers with a ribbon that reads "Franco Family" occupies the central place, surrounded by all kinds of bouquets that combine the Spanish flag colors and cover the inscription of the tombstone.

In general, gestures are conspicuous, there are those who cry despite not having just 30 years, and therefore have not lived more than in democracy. The general prohibition of taking pictures inside the basilica today is being skipped by everyone, starting with the woman who was lamenting, to which the guards have to draw attention several times.

The darkness of the basilica, the silence, the frightening statues of angels and the high ceilings with dampness give the atmosphere an even greater touch at the last moment, although it could also be that which has so many of the monuments that are barely visited.

In the immense granite esplanade through which the basilica is entered the drama of those 30 is diluted: there are a few curious and tourists who take selfies with the gigantic cross in the background, or with the Pieta that crowns the entrance and makes some years had to be repaired urgently because parts were detached.

Several people wait with their vehicles at the gates of the Valley of the Fallen after the enclosure closes. David Fernández

The Government's decision to close the Valley with just a few hours' notice leaves clear harms: the workers in the cafeteria next to the monument. "They could have waited for Monday, because tomorrow [for this Saturday] is one of the days that more people come, because it is the day of Hispanidad. We expected 8,000 visitors, and we had already made the entire purchase to have food to spare, because it's the day we don't stop. Now I guess we'll have to ask for damages, because a lot of merchandise is going to be spoiled, "explains one of the restaurant workers.

For them now a forced holiday is coming that could end on October 25, although it is expected that the exhumation and reopening of the Valley will occur earlier.

Returning to the grave, as the minutes pass and six o'clock approach the people leave. Half an hour ago they no longer allow entry to the basilica, and the doors of the Valley, with their iron bars next to the road, remain open, but can no longer be crossed.

All who leave are rushing in the souvenir shop, probably thinking that a historic day deserves a historical memory. And the basilica is increasingly empty.

Only the most sensed dare to stop for a moment before the tombstone, pray something fast and after passing the cord that surrounds it to kiss her goodbye. Shortly thereafter, the grating of the choir that is next to the grating tombstone: he is an employee of the monument, who begins to bolt and without having to say anything makes it clear that this is closing. The prior of the abbey, who had assured just 48 hours ago that he would not allow access to practice exhumation, has just canceled a conference he had scheduled for seven in the Escorial.

A poster announces the suspension of the conference that the prior of the abbey would give. ANGEL NAVARRETE

So as the entire enclosure is closing in parts, a gesture of surrender is spreading among the nostalgic visitors, because the Supreme Court's ruling has not left any cracks, while the expectant cameras accumulate at the main entrance to film the closure of those huge bars.

At seven in the afternoon, the main door is closed. Three kilometers higher, on the esplanade, there are the Civil Guard and some workers. It's over.

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  • Spain
  • Civil Guard
  • Valley of the Fallen
  • Franco exhumation

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