London (AFP)

For his third parade with Burberry Monday in London, the Italian Riccardo Tisci has printed his brand, revisiting the iconic trench and adding a touch of streetwear, his specialty.

The Italian stylist, ex-Givenchy, took in March 2018 the estate of Christopher Bailey, with the mission to breathe new life into the venerable house founded in 1856.

A year has passed since his first fashion show in London, and the 45-year-old stylist seems to have found his balance.

"The first season, I put up the letters, the alphabet, the second I started to write, and this season I feel like writing a good or bad book on what I do in Burberry" Riccardo Tisci told AFP behind the scenes.

For this parade, one of the most anticipated of the London fashion week devoted to spring-summer 2020 collections, Burberry had yet released the big game, taking possession of Troubadour White City Theater, a theater in West London. In the middle of the room, a large rectangle whose mirrored walls rise and let appear huge round white speakers: place to the show!

As usual, celebrities in the audience - the fashion pope Anna Wintour, actress Isabelle Huppert, singers Dua Lipa and Carla Bruni- but also among the models: Gigi and Bella Hadid, Irina Shaik, Agyness Dean.

Baptized "Evolution", the collection is inspired by the Victorian era, the time of the brand's creation, with silhouettes in the waisted size and elaborate sleeves.

The famous sand-colored trench of the British brand, in a country where it is better not to go out without its umbrella, is revisited: short forward and long back frock coat, skirt trompe l'oeil effect or lined with silk.

- Trench coats and tracksuits -

Women wear lace dresses with exaggerated puff sleeves or shirts with open sleeves in front of or ending with feathers, men in English suits in blue-gray or sand tones tightened at the waist with belts and trench coats. coats but also more streetwear outfits, Tisci specialty.

On the men's side you will find parkas, hoodies and rugby shirts with ribbed knit inserts.

The silk scarf with animal print - I am obsessed with animals "says Tisci - is found in trench lining or skirt.

On the color side, Burberry is rather classic: gray, black, beige and white with hints of ocher, pink, red and blue.

Riccardo Tisci spent 12 years at Givenchy, before being recruited by Burberry, to bring the brand closer to "millenials" (people born between 1980 and 2000).

"We want to continue to stay in luxury but without forgetting the street," says the stylist, citing his own journey: "I come from a simple background and I do not want to forget anyone".

Cadet of a family of nine children and only boy, having lost his father to 4 years, Riccardo Tisci went to London at the age of 17, where he studied at the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion school.

According to him, the "younger generation" is looking for clothes that have a "strong identity" and are accessible. "They want fashion, price and products that last a long time," says the stylist.

At Burberry, the trench coexist with tracksuits, a contrast to the image of the United Kingdom, where Tisci remarks, there has always been "the queen" and "punks", these "two sides".

Finally, what is the British identity for this Italian responsible for renewing a British brand?

"To be sophisticated and do not be afraid to have fun with your own wardrobe, that's very British for me".

© 2019 AFP