Paris (AFP)

Thirty major textile groups, one of the most polluting industries in the world, launched on Friday, before the G7, a coalition to reduce their environmental impact based on volunteerism, and welcomed with skepticism by NGOs.

Pesticides to produce cotton, chemicals to dye textiles, CO2 to transport clothing for thousands of kilometers, plastic microfibers emitted during the washing of synthetic textiles and land in the oceans ... The sector of fashion is at the origin of many pollutions.

It is responsible for 20% of wastewater discharges and 10% of CO2 emissions worldwide.

In May, the Elysée commissioned billionaire François-Henri Pinault, who heads the Kering Group (Gucci), to mobilize the fashion and luxury industry, which has a turnover of 1,500 billion euros annually.

Three months later, a "fashion pact" will be unveiled Friday afternoon. It is signed by Adidas, Capri Holdings (Versace ...), Carrefour, Chanel, H & M, Gap, Inditex (Zara ...), Kering, Nike, Prada, Puma, Stella McCartney ... Monday, it will be presented by François-Henri Pinault at the G7 in Biarritz.

This is not the first initiative of its kind. At COP24 in Poland in 2018, 43 companies committed to reducing their greenhouse gas emissions by 30% by 2030.

In this new charter, the signatories undertake "to direct (the) companies towards actions compatible with the trajectory at 1.5 ° C of global warming, via a + just transition + to reach zero net emissions of CO2 in 2050".

The text identifies three areas of action, to "mitigate and adapt to climate change," "bend the curve of biodiversity loss within 10 years" and protect the oceans, with few targets: 100 % of renewables by 2030 "throughout the supply chain" or "eliminate disposable plastic by 2030".

The charter does not detail the actions to be carried out because "each group has its specificities", explains Kering. A meeting is planned in October "to go into more detail on how to work together" and priority actions. The groups will "report annually," says Kering.

- Produce less -

What will happen if companies do not fulfill their commitments? The Ministry of Ecological Transition relies on "influencers on social networks, NGOs (...) very vigilant on the possible gap between speeches and acts" to push them to play the game, "the effects on their reputation can be violent "otherwise.

Relocating clothing production closer to consumers is "not on the agenda" of this pact, says Kering. Neither a questioning of "fast fashion" and the multiplication of collections, however criticized for its impact on the environment.

"We had a doubling between 2000 and 2014 of clothing consumption in the world," said Pierre Cannet, WWF France. The trend should continue with "a craze for fast fashion" in Asia, notes insurer Coface and an explosion in the use of synthetic fibers.

"If it is to sell more and renewable energy, it will not be enough," warns Pierre Cannet. "We must review the model, reduce production, make clothes usable longer, that no longer emit microplastics when they are washed and produced sustainably."

Recycling is mentioned in the charter. Companies such as H & M have started recycling operations, but there are still significant technological and economic barriers to textile reprocessing and the proportion of recycled materials remains minimal.

Rather than rely on the goodwill of companies, it is up to the States to act, Judge Clément Sénéchal of Greenpeace: "we need legislation to push to reduce the consumption of clothing".

© 2019 AFP