Paris (AFP)
The new American artistic director Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli presented Monday in Paris his first haute couture collection "halfway between functionality and dream" with the idea of reinventing the fashion house founded in 1927.
During the parade recreating the atmosphere of a tunnel where the noise and vibrations of the metro were heard, the designer stayed in the middle of the podium drawing behind a desk.
The show was held rue Cambon, opposite the historic headquarters of Chanel reminiscent of a legendary rivalry of Elsa and Coco, creators of the two opposite aesthetic fashion houses.
Surrealist and theatrical dresses, signatures of the house founded by the Italian Elsa Schiaparelli who collaborated with Salvador Dali, are still there, but a large part of the collection is functional and portable, borrowed from the male wardrobe, while reserving some surprises .
A navy wool jacket is worn with a panta-panty embellished with black satin and organza and a hood embroidered with crystals. A navy cashmere coat with flared sleeves is lined with alligator skin, a military green trench has silk sleeves.
The collection mixes Art Deco and surrealism and is inspired by Jack Whitten's techno-primitive sculptures that reject the idea of a conventional femininity.
In the evening, a woolen vest embellished with rhinestone manicure is worn on a crinoline dress embroidered with crystals. A dress embroidered with pearls is enhanced with a veil of absinthe green satin and a hat.
In "dream" outfits, the designer plays with proportions like in the daringly draped silk-draped wedding dress.
- Hypnotized by Iris Van Herpen
Iris Van Herpen's breathtaking collection "Hypnose" defied gravity with light dresses constructed with layers of bright organza spheres.
The parade revolved around an "Omniverse" sculpture by the American artist Anthony Howe, which echoed the anemones and birds evoked by the Dutch designer's high-tech creations.
Canadian singer Celine Dion, whose latest fashion audacity is closely followed by fashion magazines, posed before the sculpture wearing a dress from the previous collections of Iris Van Herpen before taking the lead.
The "hypnosis" technique was developed in collaboration with the British professor Phillip Beesley, a neuroscientist.
It consists of cutting the satin in thousands of "waves" of 0.8 mm, each being connected and designed to move so fast that the eye can not follow.
The parade ended with an "Infinity" dress with its own movement mechanism designed with Anthony Howe and imitating the installation of the latter.
? 2019 AFP