You may have already heard of it in a restaurant, or during an aperitif with friends. Biodynamic wines have been more and more successful in recent years, despite the criticism surrounding it. But what are the differences between this appellation and classic or organic wines? Olivier Poels, columnist for La table des bons vivant on Europe 1, explains everything you need to know about biodynamic wines.
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What differences with organic wine or natural wine?
"You should know that natural wine does not exist as such, since no label regulates its regulations. This is not the case for organic (AB label) or biodynamic (Demeter label). Biodynamic , if we are very concise, could be defined as organic which would add a little touch of esotericism to its concept. There is something very concrete and and most abstract.
Biodynamics is based on the work of Rudolf Steiner (a controversial Austrian intellectual, editor's note ), who theorized the main principles in the 1920s. For biodynamics, the earth is a whole and one cannot be satisfied with looking at what is goes into the ground. The environment and the cosmos also play a role in the growth and well-being of the plant. It therefore uses preparations based on plants, cow dung or quartz which must be energized and then act on the soil and therefore the vine and ultimately the wine. All this while respecting cosmic cycles. "
But is it really serious?
"This is what its detractors say, that in reality it is more about beliefs than science. And it is true that all of this has not been scientifically demonstrated. Being certified as a biodynamic field is moreover quite difficult and requires very special attention, a strong implication in the work of the vineyard. One might think that only a few hurluberlus have converted there, but this is not the case. Very large French winegrowers in all regions work in biodynamics, without however claiming it. "
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Does this make better wines?
"That is the whole question. I have made disturbing tastings of wines from the same terroirs, vinified in the same way with the only difference that one vine was cultivated biodynamically and the other not. I cannot deny that we perceive a difference, an often more alive side in biodynamic wine. Nevertheless, as for organic or nature, there are good wines and bad. In any case, in any case, this cannot harm. "
Are they more expensive?
"Yes, very often. These are wines that require a lot more human labor, and the yield is also generally lower. So you have to pay for that. In general, they are 15 to 20% more expensive."