Marta Fernández Guadaño
Updated Monday, April 1, 2024-00:14
Gstronomy Seven neighborhood restaurants where you can eat luxuriously
Among narrow streets and squares, there are traditional bars and taverns, traditional or modern eateries, contemporary cafes, international cuisine concepts and some shops offering gastronomic offerings.
The Crab Eater
Facade of El CangrejeroTourism Madrid
A collection of preserves is stacked neatly behind the bar of this
traditional establishment
, which could pass for a neighborhood bar and it is, but it is also true that it has earned prestige over decades as one of the great addresses to grab products — especially canned fish and seafood. Perhaps, tuna belly from Ortiz, melva canutera from Usisa, mussels from Ramón Franco, cockles from Conservas de Cambados... are just examples of an almost infinite offer, which allows you to have a good aperitif in this brewery founded by
Ángel Peinado
in the sixties and which is located in the
old Mahou factory
. To accompany, chips and crusts.
Amaniel, 25. Madrid. Price: €10-50
The glory
Facade of La GloriaEM
In January 2013,
Sol Pérez-Fragero opened La Gloria, a
food house
format
specialized in
Andalusian cuisine
that pays tribute to his grandmother in the Noviciado neighborhood and within the Conde Duque axis. "Tavern with an Andalusian air," the entrepreneur defines her business, which, in fact, is both a bar with a bar at the entrance before entering the dining room. Stews such as choco meatballs and rice shrimp with Sanlúcar manzanilla, eggs with fried lace, potatoes and Iberian dewlap, their famous flamenquín from Cordoba—made in Almodóvar del Río and sent from there to the establishment in Madrid—, orza loin in olive oil. olive, salmorejo or various muffins are options on the menu.
Sundays are for rice
at La Gloria, since it is the day on which Valencian paella is served with a price per serving of 16.50 euros - it is advisable to reserve. "There is no
brunch
here , there is paella," they defend in the establishment. In September 2020, Pérez-Fragero opened another location not far away, already jumping to Malasaña:
Josefita Bar
, on Valverde Street (which, in reality, was the first headquarters of La Gloria, before its move in April 2015 to Noviciado Street).
Novitiate, 2. Madrid. Tel.: 91 083 14 01. Price: €35-45
El Maño Wineries
Facade of Bodegas El Maño
Historic bar or, rather, 'wine cellar' that maintains its traditional appearance intact with a bar, tables and large windows on its façade. El Maño started as a brand in 1905, as the project of the
Martínez family
to distribute in Madrid their wines from their land, Cariñena. They had nine stores in the city, one of them located on La Palma Street, which opened in 1927. The neighborhood tells how a renovation in the 50s of the last century was so successful that the neighbors referred to it headquarters of El Maño as 'Versalles'. From that wine distribution business, this location is the only one that remains today. Of course, under different management, since the owners of Casa Macareno—a nearby tavern, in San Vicente Ferrer—took over Bodegas El Maño a few years ago. In any case, this century-old establishment maintains its commitment to traditional Spanish cuisine that allows you to have an aperitif or eat. Its
Russian salad
is famous , on a menu with anchovy or anchovy 'Gilda', Roman-style squid tails with aioli, grilled ear with brava sauce or Madrid-style tripe.
La Palma, 64. Madrid. Tel. 911 63 31 90
.
Price: €10-30
Federal
Breakfast at Federal
Under the project of two Australian entrepreneurs,
Tommy Tang
and
Crick King
, this concept born in Barcelona arrived in Madrid more than a decade ago, where they proposed a truly innovative formula at that time: a modern cafe with a
healthy
philosophy , continuous hours, proposals such as
brunch
, a dining room that is almost a cozy living room, magazines available to the public and what they then defined as "a unique mix of British, European and Asian cultures." Named after a small Australian town, Federal – on the coast between Sydney and Brisbane – the format is still in force. Federal is a pleasant and quiet space overlooking the Plaza de las Comendadoras through large windows. There is an extensive menu with toast, eggs, salads, hamburgers, coffees and juices. Over time, Federal grew in Madrid, Barcelona, Sitges and Valencia—in some cases, through a franchise.
Plaza de las Comendadoras, 9. Madrid. Tel.: 91 532 84 24.
Price: €3-25
The Birra Taqueria
Tacos at Taquería de Birra
Today, when Mexican cuisine 'populates' Madrid and tacos find their way onto the menu of a variety of businesses, we must remember that La Taquería de Birra opened its first location in 1989 and it was in the Plaza de las Comendadoras. It can be considered the first or
one of the first taquerias in Madrid
. Their menu includes an extensive and varied list of tacos, such as 'pastor', cochinita pibil, spicy chicken or poblano steak, along with quesadillas and enchiladas.
Guacamole, beef or chicken chilaquiles
or some cheese casseroles accompanied by various ingredients complete the proposal. Plus,
Mexican cocktails
with half a dozen 'Margarita' options. The same owners have two other stores in Madrid.
Plaza de las Comendadoras, 2. Madrid. Tel.: 915 232 806. Price: €25-35
Modern Cafe
Modern Cafe FacadeMadrid Tourism
There is a moment in which the series adaptation of 'Red Queen', the novel by Juan Gómez-Jurado, appears at the Café Moderno, on a corner of the Plaza de las Comendadoras. It is just an example of the number of times this business has been the setting for film shoots. With its characteristic sign, it represents almost an institution in the Conde Duque area, with a model that mixes the offer of coffees and drinks. With an interior area in a living room and a pleasant terrace in the square that is open all year round. Linked to artists, illustrators and photographers, who are among its clients, it sometimes hosts cultural events or presentations by audiovisual creators.
Plaza de las Comendadoras, 1. Madrid. Tel.: 604 54 52 51. Price: €3-20
Rivas Wineries
Interior of Bodegas RivasEM
Founded by
Julio Rivas in 1923
as a neighborhood bar offering vermouth and portions, since 2017 it belongs to Grupo Carmencita, whose owner,
Marianne Isabel Job Álvarez
, began managing Bodegas Rivas, after a few years established in the neighborhood with her concept of
brunch
The previous owners of Bodegas Rivas offered this American—with a Spanish mother and Swiss father—to keep the business when they retired. Thus, the businesswoman has two stores on La Palma street. The classic bar completes Carmencita's
brunch
menu
with a menu of Spanish dishes at night, from 7:00 p.m. to midnight. From recipes recovered from its previous stage, such as the salad with bonito or the 'Rivas-style' bravas potatoes, to Andalusian-style squid with aioli or León blood sausage toast, but also some more international dishes such as hamburgers or 'nachos from La Gringa ' with gratin cheese and guacamole.
La Palma, 61. Madrid. Tel.: 914 217 954. Price: Letter: €15-30. 'Brunch': €13-18
Tenth B
Madrid-style tripe from Décimo B
"Food bar" is the subtitle of this business that recreates a food house in a modern location. "A meeting place based on
traditional food
," it is presented. Its strong point that attracts clientele during the week is the dish of the day, priced at 10.50 euros, which includes a drink. If you prefer, add a starter and dessert, then you can go to the full menu, for 14.5 euros. In addition, you can eat à la carte, with traditional dishes, others not so many and some
vegan or vegetarian
: from ratatouille with fried chickpeas and egg, meatballs in sauce to pumpkin croquettes, confit leek and almonds.
Conde Duque, 8. Madrid. Tel.: 910 969 387. Price: dish of the day: €10.50. Full menu: 14.5. Menu: €20-30
Cheese Farming
Appearance of the bar and shelves, in the background, from Quesería CultivoEM
A clue to a cheese shop. More than a decade ago, Quesería Cultivo started in this location, a stone's throw from Alberto Aguilera, which makes, selects, refines and distributes artisanal Spanish cheeses. It ships a good range of cheeses, from its own workshops where raw milk is transformed into various references - with production spaces such as Félix Iniesta, Granja Cantagrullas and La Cuerre - At the same time, they work "directly and closely" with a dozen small producers who supply 'blank cheeses' that Cultivo then refines. In Madrid, they add two more points of sale.
Conde Duque, 15. Madrid. Tel.: 910 000 300.
Price: from €5
Of Wines
De Vinos.EM Shelf
Project by
Yolanda Morán
, sommelier with the title WSET3. Open for 12 years, this wine bar functions as a tavern, wine bar, tasting space and tastings, in which the owner discovers different references from different regions. Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7 pm.
La Palma, 76. Madrid. Tel.: 911 82 34 99